1938 Ford Pickup build

Johnny my projects are usually pretty big and can drag out. Coupes been a number of years. The pickup has been a couple years. However there are always a few smaller projects that friends bring by through the course of the year, that if I don't get at and do, I end up tripping all over them. You know how it goes they are never in a hurry for them LOL. Usually means it's a freeby! lol.
 
So Bash, is this a good thing or does the fact that your hammers are put away leave you a little sad,,,?🤔
 
CDNflatlander said:
That looks great! Simple primer pushes the project down closer to the finish line...thanks for sharing.
Did you state what you are using for the primer? I ask as a total newbie...are there several steps to primer today, or “just primer”?
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Flatlander any primer worth anything today is at least a two component product. (chemically dried) Gone are the days of Lacquer primer (an air dry product)and to high in levels of VOC's. Today there are several brands out there, some better than others, for different reasons, ie; some thinner than others, some harder to sand, etc. All quite expensive compared to lacquer primer lol. I am using a Sikkens primer, l like the way it sprays, builds and it sands nice doesn't plug the paper. Not cheap however. But primer is just a step in the process. There are other products you need to use before you get to this stage of primer (final prime coat before paint). They have removed the chromates from primers these days. Chromates are what allowed you to put primers over bare metal, like leaded paint they found it to be carcinogenic. Most will require either an epoxy or etch primer over the bare metal before applying todays primers. I am an epoxy guy, some folks prefer etches but you use one or the other, if you use etch you can't use epoxy over it or body filler. However you can use filler or etch over epoxy. The only time you would use etch over epoxy would be if you sanded through to bare metal, you would need to etch it (faster dry time) or re-pepoxy it. Some claim to have direct to metal capability in their primers but I have never trusted them. Also if they do they usually compromise the building ability or sanding ability to do so.

Sorry I didn't intend this to be such a long winded response!🤪
 
Sassy said:
So Bash, is this a good thing or does the fact that your hammers are put away leave you a little sad,,,?🤔
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I do enjoy the metal work. No one in their right mind likes block sanding, monotomous work, turn off brain and move arms. Dirty work too. But the good thing about it is that it is that much closer to being done!
 
Bash and scratch said:
Flatlander any primer worth anything today is at least a two component product. (chemically dried) Gone are the days of Lacquer primer (an air dry product)and to high in levels of VOC's. Today there are several brands out there, some better than others, for different reasons, ie; some thinner than others, some harder to sand, etc. All quite expensive compared to lacquer primer lol. I am using a Sikkens primer, l like the way it sprays, builds and it sands nice doesn't plug the paper. Not cheap however. But primer is just a step in the process. There are other products you need to use before you get to this stage of primer (final prime coat before paint). They have removed the chromates from primers these days. Chromates are what allowed you to put primers over bare metal, like leaded paint they found it to be carcinogenic. Most will require either an epoxy or etch primer over the bare metal before applying todays primers. I am an epoxy guy, some folks prefer etches but you use one or the other, if you use etch you can't use epoxy over it or body filler. However you can use filler or etch over epoxy. The only time you would use etch over epoxy would be if you sanded through to bare metal, you would need to etch it (faster dry time) or re-pepoxy it. Some claim to have direct to metal capability in their primers but I have never trusted them. Also if they do they usually compromise the building ability or sanding ability to do so.

Sorry I didn't intend this to be such a long winded response!🤪
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. Info like this should be put into the reference section...good info for everyone.
 
Well I ran into a snag on this 38. Rember me saying I lowered the rearend of this thing 8 inches, well I used the measurements from the pre-existing mounts. Telling myself that I would double check and cross measure everything when I got all the sheet metal off the truck. Well I couldn't to my satisfaction get the wheel base and cross measurements to jive, nothing was making sense. So I dropped a datum line and made some referenced measure points and low and behold the frame is diamonded, frak! So I will be cutting it apart and attempting to move it 3/8's of an inch. Wish me luck.

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Thanks for peekin in.
 
So if the 3/8" is the difference between two cross measurements then one rail is about 3/16 to 1/4 ahead of the other. You may be able to cross chain and come-along and heat the ends of the crossmembers enough to get it back square. May then have to move one of the spring perches if the RA needs to be squared up. Good luck.
 
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