What did you do today-2024

Got the rear seat out the other day.

The rear seat back cover looked llke it was original to the Falcon but an absoulte mess...lots of tape and black spray paint to cover it it.

There was a bit of debris underneath, hence vacuumed it up along with the dried out seam sealer in a few places.

That will have to be replaced and resprayed.

Floors are in good shape, again original.

Have decided not to go the steel panel route.

Have some speaker wiring to re-route and since the seat bottom is out, clean the seat belts.

That's the weekend work.
 
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Did another round of brake bleeding on the lincoln today . 3 rounds to be exact. no air in the lines, drove it off the hoist ,NO BRAKES ! AArgh! I'm going to try putting another shim in the push rod to bring the pedal off the floor when depressed. I'm running out of ideas. I bench bled the master probably 4 times . no bubbles anywhere . Weird thing is that when the hydro boost is connected I have brakes. This one has me stumped 😣
 
Did another round of brake bleeding on the lincoln today . 3 rounds to be exact. no air in the lines, drove it off the hoist ,NO BRAKES ! AArgh! I'm going to try putting another shim in the push rod to bring the pedal off the floor when depressed. I'm running out of ideas. I bench bled the master probably 4 times . no bubbles anywhere . Weird thing is that when the hydro boost is connected I have brakes. This one has me stumped 😣
I feel your pain Lee ----what set up do you have ? master -booster-prop valve -residuals--pedal ratio -etc etc I scrolled back and didnt any info listed.

Cheers
 
Hi Shane,
4- wilwood 12" 4 piston discs
wilwood m/c , ford mustang hydroboost,
prop valve to rear brakes
no rv's
hanging pedal with 6" offset via bell crank ,ratio??
everything is new except the hydro.
The hydro boost is pressured by a volvo electric pump that supplies power assist to the brakes and the PS rack.
The HB seems to work fine, stopping the car and supplying power steering.
I have a under dash switch to turn off the pump and when I do the brakes go to the floor will no resistance at all. After bleeding the brakes yesterday we noticed a slight improvement in the pedal , but when I held the brakes (pump off) put it in drive the car moved forward.
I've googled the hell out of this problem and all the answers are the same. Air in the lines. I am pretty confident the lines are clear with all my brake lines tight. I am going to try adding another 1/8 " to my push rod today and see if that makes a difference
brakes.JPG
 
pedal ratio but dont think has any bearing on your issue

Pedal-Ratio-Measure.jpg

Ratio I think are 4:1 for your application but not 100% on that

wilwood has tutorial on all this shit ---still mind boggling

"IF" the air is out ........... are you able to see master depress when stepping on pedal? Rule of thumb on those set ups was the rod just touches plunger when adjusted with pedal at rest but I have had to make them a little more then that in the past for same reason you are describing.

let me scratch the baldness a bit more .........
 
Have you tried just gravity bleeding? What I do is get a clear plastic hose that fits snuggly over the bleeder screw. Have the hose facing up, then crack the bleeder screw and let the fluid flow. When the bubbles stop, then there's no air left in that line. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the hose and move onto the left rear. It has to work and if it doesn't then you have air entering the system from somewhere.
 
Have you tried just gravity bleeding? What I do is get a clear plastic hose that fits snuggly over the bleeder screw. Have the hose facing up, then crack the bleeder screw and let the fluid flow. When the bubbles stop, then there's no air left in that line. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the hose and move onto the left rear. It has to work and if it doesn't then you have air entering the system from somewhere.
ya --loose fitting --seen that many many times ....... Good call RMK
 
Thanks for the replies. Gravity bleeding was my next step. I have the pushrod just touching the plunger with a little resistance but I am going to try a 1/8 slug in between and see what that does.
 
Update. I think my linkage is too short on my bell crank set-up. I am only getting 1/4" travel on the push rod. I took it out and revamped the geometry .it brings my pedal up nice and high . Fingers crossed. I will post the results after I reinstall tomorrow 🤞
 
Got to work on the rear seat divider and re-routed the speaker wires accordingly too.
Cleaned up the area to to get it ready for seam sealer in a few spots but must remove the some rust first.
Tried getting the seat back into position but that's harder than trying to take it out.
Removed the arm rests and will try again today.

click to enlarge
 

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Today was a good day.
Rear Seat back went in like nothing to it at all.
Possibly over thinking yesterday.
Used a Rust Dissolver Gel to remove the deep rust on some areas of the floor.
Funny though, it did nothing on the surface rust that I tried it on.
Sealed everything up again and the bottom seat just slipped right in.
Cleaned down the whole rear interior area.

Next weekend, I will attempt to clean the seat belts.
 
Maybe, finally spring here (sorry if it bursts some bubbles of Hawaii, but we have a winter just a little different than yours), so got the truck, Falcon and Fairlane out to get the juices running again. Races (if the weather holds) this weekend and next so plan on attending. Spring cleaning in shop, some extra stuff listed for sale, repainted benchtop, me recovering from a little surgery.
 
Replaced the ujoints on the 52 that went fine ---------But
Pinion bearing has a lot of slop 😡