Sassy the 64 Moy Caliente Comet

Thanks guys!
Ya Marilyn is guarding the cupboards,, may have to go to town but right now it's beer 🍺break.
 
I have used varsol or isopropyl alcohol to leak check anything I have welded.
 
This is what I use. Having said that it might be to costly for some but I do a lot of weld repairs that are open to atmosphere and cant be pressure tested. Just repaired my oil pan on the coyote and welded oil return bungs for the turbos and spotted a pin hole on one of the welds. A must have product for me. There is nothing more aggravating than finding a slight leak in an oil pan after it is sealed on the block and full of fresh oil. You simply spray the white developer on the outside of the pan covering the weld area and then spray the red dye penetrant on the inside of the same area. the obvious pinhole or crack will appear immediately but leaving it for an hr. or so is best to reveal any cold lap in a mig weld .
https://www.vallen.ca/products/220-...t-developer-standard-12-oz-aerosol-can-cloudy

ORS CANADA INC. P101S-A PENETRANT RMVBL SOLVENT-RED 16OZ AERO

www.vallen.ca www.vallen.ca
 
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Thanks much for the input. Ya used the isopropyl to find exactly where before I welded and after with good results so far.
Yes ratrig seeing anything but fresh paint and a bit of stray sealant on a mounted pan,,, upsetting,,, is conservative term!
 
The other leak I had was the front seal,,,,, so I thought!


Thank goodness the piece in the crank wasn't tight!
Get reading and I guess that bolt is one time use and Ive tightened up that one probably 6 or more times.
O well I've always said this ole red bucket teaches me all the time. The bolt and washer, 24$US+exchange+shipping= $82!!!!!Ca oh you should get it by spring,,,,,, £π©€!!!!
 
ratrig said:
This is what I use. Having said that it might be to costly for some but I do a lot of weld repairs that are open to atmosphere and cant be pressure tested. Just repaired my oil pan on the coyote and welded oil return bungs for the turbos and spotted a pin hole on one of the welds. A must have product for me. There is nothing more aggravating than finding a slight leak in an oil pan after it is sealed on the block and full of fresh oil. You simply spray the white developer on the outside of the pan covering the weld area and then spray the red dye penetrant on the inside of the same area. the obvious pinhole or crack will appear immediately but leaving it for an hr. or so is best to reveal any cold lap in a mig weld .
https://www.vallen.ca/products/220-...t-developer-standard-12-oz-aerosol-can-cloudy

ORS CANADA INC. P101S-A PENETRANT RMVBL SOLVENT-RED 16OZ AERO

www.vallen.ca www.vallen.ca
Click to expand...
I found by accident that brake clean is a pretty good crack detectant. I was cleaning the bore of a small engine flywheel with brake clean and when I wiped it off I could see the brake clean weeping out of the otherwise invisible crack. So if the pan is clean and dry and you spray some brake clean inside the joint. you'll see it weeping through on the outside if there are leaks. A quick check if you don't have dye penetrant.
 
Interesting, but I’d be concerned about the risk of creating poisonous fumes if there’s any residual brake cleaner in the joint when you try to weld it up. I’m not a welder but have read there’s a risk of phosgene gas being released, and I know the welding shop at work prohibits the use of brake cleaner for that reason.
 
Built a baffled deep sump teed out pan for my Maverick after I found out the hard way it had become to quick with a basic baffled pan (spun rod bearings twice) filled pan with solvent from parts washer and found a couple pinholes.
 
The Big M said:
Interesting, but I’d be concerned about the risk of creating poisonous fumes if there’s any residual brake cleaner in the joint when you try to weld it up. I’m not a welder but have read there’s a risk of phosgene gas being released, and I know the welding shop at work prohibits the use of brake cleaner for that reason.
Click to expand...
Jason: This has been discussed before, but it's worth bringing up again.

You're correct, The Chlorinated Brake Kleen, plus UV light creates phosgene gas (that's the stuff they used in WW 1, NASTY!!)

Using the Non-Chlorinated version is safe, but most shops just make it verboten, because it's too easy to not pay attention to the Ingredients, and the consequences are not worth the risk........

See the article in the link below....

www.brewracingframes.com

Safety Alert! Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gas

Brew Bikes LLC 828-406-6668 Phone & Text. brewdude@brewracingframes.com BREW is a registered trademark and NO images or use without written consent.
www.brewracingframes.com

James
 
Hey guys there is good info here and a lot of members may miss it. Im going to copy / paste
about the products mentioned here to general discussion. So any posts related to similar information could be put there.
 
Couple more changes on Sassy.
Bearings instead of bushings
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And this
 
Had to get creative to come with a pair of lenses that didnt have clear backup lenses in the center.
Had afewe different lenses that together made what I needed.

 
Getting closer to install. Got all the modules mounted and wired. Sorted a perfect place to mount thd box using velcro. Along with extra wire length in box any service required will be simple removal.
Wire is position mounted out of box then colour coded at connector.

 
My father had a 1968 California Special with sequential lights. I always marveled over the noise of the electric motor turning the cam over breaking the contacts to make the lights flash. Oh, how things have changed.
 
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