My 1952 Buick

JohnnyBgood said:
Had what I thought was a vibration at about 90 k...turned out to be my tranny lock up kicking in and out rapidly...turns out that vacuumed ports are not all created equally. I was using a port of the side of the carb for my vacuum for my lock up. When I put a gauge on it I had to rev the motor up almost to 3/4 throttle to get the vacuum I needed. Tested a port on the front of my carb and it had almost twice as much vacuum just off idle. Switched my lock up port to the front and the tranny works as it should...Carb re- jet is next on my list...
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Ported (vacuum taken above the throttle plates) VS non ported (manifold vacuum) taken below the throttle plates.
 
licensed to kill said:
Ported (vacuum taken above the throttle plates) VS non ported (manifold vacuum) taken below the throttle plates.
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So which one has the greater vacuum?.above or below plates.....to answer Ken47 question..I’m running a 13 lb cap...
 
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Hey John, the car is looking dam good in Canadian Hot Rods!!!
The colour and stands of your car always get me, just love it, again well done nice job.

Brian.
 
Taggart29 said:
Hey John, the car is looking dam good in Canadian Hot Rods!!!
The colour and stands of your car always get me, just love it, again well done nice job.

Brian.
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Thanks..I haven’t seen it yet..none of the stores around here have the mag and I have ordered it twice online and haven’t got any of them yet..if I haven’t got a copyright in a week I’m going to get my virus suit on and venture out to find a copy...
 
Ah dam, well let me know if you can’t find one, I can just grab another and fire it in the mail for ya, that might be faster lol.
 
Trying to take off the damn pitman arm..should be easy..hasn’t been on very long..anyways I ended up stripped out the threads on the first puller...second puller broke a finger off ..getting a third puller in the morning..they are all kind of beefy looking but just don’t want to pull that arm off...And you can’t return anything to the store until this virus thing is done....if I break this one I’m going to cut the friggin arm off....
 
Do you have some way of heating the pitman arm ? That would help considerably. Put tension on the puller and then add heat. Soon as it moves pull away. Meanwhile spray some pb blaster on it. That stuff Does work!
 
https://blastercorp.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/
You can buy it at Can.tire. A must have in your tool box.
I feel your pain with the pitman arm not breaking loose. I used a puller on the lincoln with no budging at all , heat finally broke it loose.
I had a harmonic balancer that wouldnt pull off, googled the problem, And found PB blaster. Bought some, sprayed it on with tension on the balancer, next day the balancer was popped off.
 
While you have it under tension give the side of it near the spline on the outside of the arm a swift hit with a club or big ball peen hammer, don't beat up on it but a good swift hit and that might just be a shock enough to free it. That has worked for me a few times when I have had to free them off after being on there for a long time.
 
I have used the 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone on really rusted shit :eek::eek:

I had heard of this mixture but just thought it another ho hum home remedy!!!!!

A friend brought his shit box Hyundai out to replace the rear drive shafts because the reluctor gear?wheel had split from rust. we spent an entire day on the passenger side to get all the nuts off using the torches / impact / hammers along with some helping words:(:(:(

After he left I figured what the hell:confused::confused: and mixed some up and soaked the drivers side nuts/bolts and anything else in site!!

When I went out at 8 in the morning ( he was to arrive around 830) I started with the impact and had everything undone before he got here:eek::eek::cool:

We had it apart and back together in time for lunch along with a shop cleanup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have used it many times since!!!!!!!!!!! I just soak everything the night before working on the item and so far it has worked amazingly!!!!!!!!
 
So after reading all the advice I went out and put liquid wrench, wd40 and some other stuff I had . Let it sit over night. Went and got my new puller..put it on and put some pressure on it. Put on some more fluids and went and made a coffee and toast. Came back and put the impact on it . Took about 10 seconds of the gun then she broke free. ..I thought that was the hard part. First I broke my snap ring pliers. So I got my other snap ring pliers that I hate because they flex and don’t close enough.After about 1/2 hour I got the snap ring off...next was the washer..beat the box with a hammer a bit and out it came. Now I was told if I put the arm and nut back on a bit and turn the car on and a quick crank on the steering wheel should pop the seals out from the pressure ...nope.. went on YouTube and seen they drill little holes in the seal and put in drywall screws and pull out with pliers...nope..finally got the first seal out with screws, small screw driver and dental tools. Next was the upper washer and seal..used same method but took hour for 2 hours total..new stuff was ready to go in..didn’t have a deep socket big enough to push and tap in the new seals. Went and cut a piece of metal fence post off which was a perfect size and put them all in. Snap ring was a big pain but it’s in. Haven’t started the car and put pressure on the seals yet but I’m praying it won’t leak...really don’t ever want to do that again...would have been easier if I took the box out of the car...but I didn’t wan to.. Thanks for all of the input guys..
 
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Got a new shifter shaft seal from a tranny shop..was a bit bigger than the one I got from GM the other tranny place and had a little more rubber around the edge. Put it in a day or so ago. Took the car out for an hour drive. Was worried that the pressure in the tranny would start it leaking again..well the tranny seal is not leaking..my steering box seal that I put in is not leaking..the valve cover gaskets that I put in are not leaking..my new overflow bottle for the rad is leaking though..the hose from the rad is 3/8 and the hose from the overflow tank is 1/4. The plastic fitting to join them started to leak when it got hot..can’t find a brass one anywhere but amazon and it is $16 ..with $12 shipping ...shipping date is June 15.. maybe..anyways I’m thrilled the other stuff is not leaking...wife thinks I’m a bit anal about leaks..nah..
 
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