39 Willys coupe project

[Bash and scratch]

As I mentioned this poor car has had a hard life so far. The doors were not spared the abuse. Some one wrapped a chain around the roof through the open windows and lifed the car. Damaging not only the door tops but the roof as well.. But for now the doors are the focus.

Better

The bottoms looked good at first look but that wasn't the case

Inner as well

thanks for peeking in

 

[Santara]

Very nice car and great work on bringing it back.
I hope you keep updating this build.

I have to figure out the photo posting also.
Not very good on the computer.


Dale

 

[Bash and scratch]

Thanks Dale,, if I can get a handle on the photo thing believe me anyone can! lol

The passenger door had similar damage from the chain but also looked like the door handle had been hooked and peeled back destroying the skin around it.

A little time and effort and it is mended.

thanks for peekin in.

 

[hooligan]

Man Bash! Just un real work that is looking so good! Outstanding skills!
I aspire to be that good one day!

So what's the mill gonna be? And colour if it's in the plan?

Dean

 

[Bash and scratch]

Man Bash! Just un real work that is looking so good! Outstanding skills!
I aspire to be that good one day!

So what's the mill gonna be? And colour if it's in the plan?

Dean

HA ha thanks Dean but I think you are already there..

This is the plan

As for color nothing stead fast yet, was thinking of the original grey but then thought too drab so leaning toward a dark jade green perhaps with some gold leaf on it?

What do you guys think? Color yes ? no?

 

[ratrig]

Sweet! I love the color too. Man, I sure admire you guys with the metal skills. what an art

 

[CDNflatlander]

...I like Green Gassers!! Lol

 

[Bash and scratch]

Thanks guys.. I see that Flatlander and a nice ride indeed.. Well on to the front sheet metal. The front fenders again came off a parts car as I only got partials with this car. They weren't great but stitched together and roughed out well. One pod was leaded to the fender so it had to go.

The pods were pretty bad but all I had and well had been searching for headlight parts for ages (still am) and found nothing.

I did them in three pieces each Top and both sides.

That's the head light pods Still have to put the inner structure back into it for mounting the actual light but that's the outer done. Again thanks for peekin in

 

[chimp koose]

I am truly amazed at the amount of metal work you can accomplish in a short amount of time , let alone the skill and craftsmanship demonstrated . You could straighten a waffle iron ! I have a question about leaving the car in bare metal . Many people talk about not leaving the metal bare for any length of time before applying some form of coating in order to avoid rust . How long will this car sit bare before you put something on it and what will you be doing to it when you get to that point ? I am asking because I would not know how long it can sit in bare metal and/or what steps to take when starting to recoat and you obviously are someone who could give an experienced reply . By the way , green will look great on this car !

 

[Bash and scratch]

I am truly amazed at the amount of metal work you can accomplish in a short amount of time , let alone the skill and craftsmanship demonstrated . You could straighten a waffle iron ! I have a question about leaving the car in bare metal . Many people talk about not leaving the metal bare for any length of time before applying some form of coating in order to avoid rust . How long will this car sit bare before you put something on it and what will you be doing to it when you get to that point ? I am asking because I would not know how long it can sit in bare metal and/or what steps to take when starting to recoat and you obviously are someone who could give an experienced reply . By the way , green will look great on this car !

Chimp (if I may call you that?) Thanks and you are right it isn't a good thing to leave it bare for any length of time.. and I usually don't but in this case I wanted photos of it in bare metal as a complete car, more or less (as proof of sorts). I usually put epoxy primer on as I go as I did the inner trunk lid and floor. The rule of thumb is no more than 8 hours bare for metal and 4 to 6 hours for aluminium, before coating with something. Now of course it is also dependant on humidity. I live in a dry part of the country for the most part. When it comes time I will completely sand it again with 120grit and then within the time limit put epoxy on it. This will be done piece by piece as I get them sanded. There are those that use etch primers (I prefer epoxy) but the same time limits exist before having to re-sand. Some use wipe on metal treatments as well, there are several different methods but over the years I personally prefer a GOOD epoxy (and they are not all created equal) it hasn't let me down in 30+ years. Hope this helps..


PS This is not happening as fast as it may appear as I post,,, I have been working on this project for a while, and as it is mine it has to be in my spare time as I still have to pay bills lol

 

[bgbdlinc]

...every post is a pleasure to read and bare metal makes me giddy.....

 

[Nitro Hunter]

Its almost a shame to cover up such fantastic metal work.Clear coat satin with a heavy green tint?

 

[Bash and scratch]

This is the point where a fella south of the border contacted me for parts (same ones I was looking for) unfortunately I had none. So I offered to make some soft patterns and mail them to him. He said no I have a metal buddy mail them to him,, so I did. This is what they looked like.

Haven't heard how he made out?

Thanks for peekin in

 

[ratrig]

Its almost a shame to cover up such fantastic metal work.Clear coat satin with a heavy green tint?

I resemble that remark

 

[Bash and scratch]

The lower center section of the grill was the only one I had and after a bit of stitching and manipulating this is what it looked like. Again it was the best I had so it was going to get repaired.

As I had no latch and nothing to pattern off of I had to come up with what I thought it might look like, this is what I came up with.

That's it for now, thanks for peekin in

 

[bgbdlinc]

...long louvers = lots of hammer and dolly work? Looks supreme and the latch looks factory...wow!

 

[PG409]

Stunning work Neil...thanks for the photos

 

[Fopar]

You're just showing off now! Beautiful workmanship and a fabulous looking car,congratulations.

 

[Bash and scratch]

Thanks guys...
Next on the list is the chassis. I will be using a stock chassis with some strength modifications.

Stripping the X member out getting down to the bare frame in order to determine engine and transmition placement.

checked it for square and all other dimensions had to tweak it here and there, but now it's ready to commence boxing, suspension and engine/trans mounts.

 

[Bash and scratch]

For those who may be interested.

I was really torn on how to build this car contemplated a tail dragger custom just to be different (and I think it would make a wicked custom) the other option was a lot more popular for these cars and I might add kind of timeless. And that was Gasser. I mulled it over for months but finally came to the conclusion that I am just not a tail dragger kind of guy.. even though I think it would look wicked chopped slammed and full skirted. With that art deco front end it would look fast just sitting still. However I could not see me driving one so I opted for the Gasser. I know it was the more popular way to go but as I say I could not see myself driving a custom it's just not me?
So having said that One of the things I wanted to use was leaf sprung rear suspension with 54" ladder bars so some research told me I would be needing these. As the spring arc will be different than that of the ladder bars. So to prevent binding and bending parts I will be using a set of floating diff mounts.

Straight axel up front with Willwood disc brakes but not sure yet if I will use the original axel or a beefier one out of a 53 Chev PU? I have done some research here as I thought the stock axle might be too light,, however lots of guys using them both on the street and the track.. not my chassis in this photo.

I also have a Dana 60 for it with 4:11 posi but have recently picked up (piece by piece) a 57 Ranchero large bearing 9 inch diff, new posi unit and a new set of 4:11's. So will be using that to kind of keep it closer to period.

I am not the chassis builder that Hooligan is (don't have the patients either) and no jig table, so this chassis will be fairly basic and unflattering. lol A few different things like making an I beam X member, flipping the front cross member for more rad clearance and adding an I beam K member and an engine cradle to help stop engine weight from spreading the frame rails..

Boxing plates and I beam tacked in.

Thanks for peeking in