1951 Ford F1 Project

Little update to where I am at on the rod. Purchased some gauges from TPI, 5" black ones, and they have yet to arrive....... that was a month ago, guess I should call. Put the door hardware on and managed to put a nice split in the metal where I should have had my side window braces..oops..... Cut the holes for my taillights into the rear of the box. Put the front and rear glass in and have the front fenders ready for paint too. Sending off my two extra front grill teeth to get chromed this week. Big decision which I cannot decide on is the color. Interior is black and engine bay will be too soon. Thinking of black, looks great on these truck but also leaning towards a windviel blue that is on the new mustangs. What do you guys think?
 
Its been a while since you've posted any updates but good to see progress is being made.

As too colour, how many active members are on this board? that's how many different answers you will get.
Colour is a very personal choice and its damn difficult.

I looked at thousands of '53-'56 F100 pics to narrow it down, did some photoshop examples which eliminated a few of the picks, got to roughly what the colour was and then it was shade testing.
 
That photoshop idea would be great, I have CS4 but no idea how to use it to do the color change. Yes it is a personal thing and I am sure between my dad and I we will narrow it down here sooner than later.

My biggest problem over the last while with the truck has been my front clip. I purchased the frame with the 73 camero clip already done and it is basically too wide for the truck. Bought a set of rims thinking they would fit (should of measured) and they rub pretty good on the front fenders and they have a pretty decent backspace on them too. So I cant run the rims I wanted to, torque thrust 2, because they just wont make that kind of backspacing on the 6" rim I need for the front. So I am going to buy my rims here soon from 'early wheels' in cali where they can make me a 4.5" b/s on a 6" rim which is what I need to fit tires underneath the front. Doesnt help it is lowered about an inch off the ground. So if the tires still rub a bit I am going to raises the front with some taller springs about an inch or so.
 
chappychapperton said:
My biggest problem over the last while with the truck has been my front clip. I purchased the frame with the 73 camero clip already done and it is basically too wide for the truck. Bought a set of rims thinking they would fit (should of measured) and they rub pretty good on the front fenders and they have a pretty decent backspace on them too. So I cant run the rims I wanted to, torque thrust 2, because they just wont make that kind of backspacing on the 6" rim I need for the front. So I am going to buy my rims here soon from 'early wheels' in cali where they can make me a 4.5" b/s on a 6" rim which is what I need to fit tires underneath the front. Doesnt help it is lowered about an inch off the ground. So if the tires still rub a bit I am going to raises the front with some taller springs about an inch or so.
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If it continues to be a problem, another option would be Fatman Fab narrowed control arms. http://fatmanfab.com/nova.php

For color, wait for vehicles to catch your eye in traffic or drive through car lots. Try to be relaxed and wait for a color to jump out at you. This is best done on a sunny day. If a color is attracting your attention then obviously you are attracted to that color. This way you see what the color looks like in real life rather than trying to picture it from a color chip.
 
Scotty said:
If it continues to be a problem, another option would be Fatman Fab narrowed control arms. http://fatmanfab.com/nova.php

For color, wait for vehicles to catch your eye in traffic or drive through car lots. Try to be relaxed and wait for a color to jump out at you. This is best done on a sunny day. If a color is attracting your attention then obviously you are attracted to that color. This way you see what the color looks like in real life rather than trying to picture it from a color chip.
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If one does jump out at you, also look at it in the shade or at dusk. You would be surprised at how some change and then the true shade comes out.

I had the painter spray up large pieces, 2' x 2' and then took pics of then in the sun and shade.
 
just becareful of fatmans control arms they are mig welded and i had a customer that went thru 3 pairs with weld failures before he gave up and tried other suppliers ... i think he ended up usein CPP suspension control arms or someone elses and has put piles of miles on worrry free ..
 
Hey this is great to know the other options as I would really like to run the torque thrust. I will look into the narrower control arms for sure.

As for the color, thanks for the tips.
 
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After getting most of the holes drilled and body part lined up. Had to lift my inner fenders to get my spacing between the hood and fenders looking good. You can see the ride sits high upfront now I have the 1 3/4" of lift from the spacers (tires can actually turn). With the 14's and 16's in the rear this should even her out.


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Started blocking and filling minor inperfections this week.

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Looking good, so now you are into one of the most important parts eh, prep for paint, You must be getting keen to have it all finished, just think if you get her all done by the end of summer next year you will be cruising and enjoying you hard work, thanks for the update.
 
Don't think it matters what type of welder is used .. it is the the skill of the welder operator that makes the parts stay together .. I use a mig all the time ,,I welded roll cages in Nascar Cup cars ,, they never broke or came apart ..obviously >> or .. Maybe .. Fatman had an inexperienced welder operator do some bad stuff .. I hope it is a problem solved because I have Fatman dropped spindles on my own car..
 
Hey No Fenders not too sound like a jerk here but yes experiance does make a differance .. but yes the type of welding process is most important Mig has its place and so does stick and tig .. i am a realseal jounreymanwelder with 17 differant sub tickets i keep up too date . ad am tested again and again on every differant job i work .. there is a reason why you do not see a migwelded Top fuel or or Low sec cars . there is also reasons why you do not see mig welding unless fluxcore used on structual jobs ..
hey Chappy truck is looking awesome ..
 
A Bone I agree with you to the extent that sometimes a TIG is necessay because of the type of steel , Top fuel cars some rear engine and Sprint cars are fabbed from Chrome Moly or other alloys that require preheating and TIG welding but my point was on suspension parts like A Arms , spindles etc they should not come apart because they were MIG welded rather than some other form of welding.. Possibly the welder was not a big enough amperage wwelder to do the job ,,who knows ??
 
Been busy with the body this summer. Lots of sanding and then some more. The F1 went in for paint last week and came out looking really nice. I ended up using PPG waterbased bc/cc in a solid ford black (UA). Really happy with the results. Now for a winter of wiring and 'hopefully' on the road this summer.

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Good to hear. Looking forward to seeing it around next year.

I see you got it painted at the local Chev dealer bodyshop.
 
Thanks Scotty,

Yes I had it painted at Pike Wheatons body shop. I know the painter there and it came out really good, some orange peel but a wet sand this spring should cure that. I thought that I would take a few months break from the truck, let the paint cure and get at it here in the new year again.
 
chappychapperton said:
Thanks Scotty,

Yes I had it painted at Pike Wheatons body shop. I know the painter there and it came out really good, some orange peel but a wet sand this spring should cure that. I thought that I would take a few months break from the truck, let the paint cure and get at it here in the new year again.
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A hot rodder with patience...I'd be itching to get it going.

will be very nice.
 
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