1946 Oldsmobile sedanette

Looks awesome!! Got to be satisfying now that it's going together. Does the hood need holes for those stacks to poke through? And if so do you have a second hood for the "stock" look? I have two hoods for my Chev, so I was thinking of putting some "peek-a-boo" vent holes in the side so you could see the engine without opening the hood, Or is it "bonnet".
 
The stacks should fit under the hood by line of sight, if not I'll machine them down to fit. Bonnet and chassis terminology down here, however I'm getting used to using hood and frame;)
 
Very Nice ! Thats got to be great feeling, putting all the pieces back together for the final time (y) (y)
Like Keith said , thats a best of show quality for sure!
 
I bet this I a great feeling to see shiny paint and clean parts being reassembled for the last time.
 
Show quality Mark !
I have been trying to talk Mark into putting it in the Show at least while the car is new, I usually do just the once, but it is a big job setting up for a show here because it is a State Title show and you get cars from all over the country. If you put a car in a show here thinking you'll win a piece of plastic ( Trophy ) you could be very disappointed because there are a lot of big dollar ones around now days and some purpose built show cars where guys build them for points etc, but all the same Marks car would be a great example and would stick it up some of the others who think they are exclusive.
 
Slow progress, a PITA to make all the templates to maximise the sheets that come in box. 3 x boxes of Dynamat Extreme so far [Each box contains 9 x sheets {18'x 32', 457mm x 812mm} and I still need to line both front doors, transmission cover and both lower rear sail panels. It's a big car so I ensured that I measured well for minimal wastage; measure twice, cut once! That bar under the dash supports the under dash brake assembly, emergency brake and AC unit. It can be removed for serviceability, in its entirety, by removing three (3) bolts on each side side along with (4) firewall mounting bolts. ;)
Lots of swage lines, dips, rises, pressings, reverse curves to address.:rolleyes:




 
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Wow…a lot of labour there. Do they have peel and stick or did you use spray adhesive?
 
Yeah, they take a lot of it. You more than me, you have a roof.

They peel and stick Keith, then roll it down to ensure adhesion.
 
I'll definitely need another box of Dynamat to finish everything, I'll do the wheel wells as well as the other parts previously mentioned. I used a grid pattern so all the sheets were symmetrical side to side so one side could be copied in reverse on the other; less wastage. I know of another car where the owner went to that much trouble, even the Dynamat logos were lined up from sheet to sheet to appear as one continuous single sheet, you'll never see under the trim any way!
:roll:
Each box isn't lightweight so four (4) boxes do add up. Then again it's a 125" WB car and not a lightweight either. The chassis is not the lightweight top-hat pressed style Chevy style but a heavy open 'C' channel that's been extensively modified and reinforced, boxed front and rear with additional cross-members.
I reinstalled the body and data plates on the new smooth firewall, all the unnecessary additional holes have been welded up leaving all the OEM pressings. A bit of dum-dum on the rivets to replicate OEM factory finish and that job is done. I need to drill holes in rear boot floor for bulkhead fittings (Air and fuel) as well as electrical (Fuel pump & sender, ride sensors). Likewise I've a bulkhead coil connector and another hole for electrical wiring. I've additional bulkhead fittings going in radiator support for engine/trans coolers however I'll wait until everything is installed and fitted up. A couple of similar firewall bulkhead fittings need to be installed for AC and brake lines.
I saw the trimmer yesterday and indicated that he needs to make a start ASAP, I previously purchased a complete OEM interior from Hampton Coach (the GM arm of Le Barron Bonney before it went bankrupt). I'm currently laying out the wiring loom and working out where things will fit (ECM & air-ride etc etc). The trimmer hopefully will come over soon and measure the hoodlining and trial fit all the trim cards. The seat belts are colour matched to coordinate with the trim.
I also purchased some rubber stock and redid all the under front and rear fender apron seals. I had a good suggestion from RustyOlds as to seals on his car but in the end I decided to replicate OEM configuration and made up staples that secured the rubbers to metal backing. A PITA and time consuming however it's me being anal in the detail.:rolleyes:
 
It's been a while and I've been dragging the chain, working around house, my daily driver etc etc the 35 Chevy and 64 Fairlane, I finally did the SS fuel lines with compression fittings due to EFI , what a PITA to get correct. Measure twice, cut once to ensure that the offsets are correct with everything lining up square


 
So how do you set up the throttle?..do they all come on at the same time ?…or more fuel to different carbs as you step on the throttle?…or runs on 2 ..then 4 ..then 6 as you step on the gas?..looks killer..
 
So how do you set up the throttle?..do they all come on at the same time ?…or more fuel to different carbs as you step on the throttle?…or runs on 2 ..then 4 ..then 6 as you step on the gas?..looks killer..
They're setup similar to normal carbs however I'm using a direct 6x2 linkage and not a progressive linkage as you would with normal carbs where center two open before the outside fours open at 65% throttle. With direct they all open simultaneously. There is a throttle position sensor (TPS) on open plenum (backside) of LHR rear carb. For all intents and purposes they appear to be standard carbs however hidden injectors are easily serviced if required. It's an old system and needs to be tuned as it's not a self learning like modern EFI. As system uses a NAP sensor I need to drill and tap individual rear inlet runners for vacuum fittings as there is no common plenum. Each group of runners feeds the opposite side intakes and vacuum needs to be balanced. I don't want to drill an original intake however one side was already drilled for a vacuum fitting so I'll do the other.