1946 Oldsmobile sedanette

MGTSTUMPY said:
T I need to drill and tap individual rear inlet runners for vacuum fittings as there is no common plenum. Each group of runners feeds the opposite side intakes and vacuum needs to be balanced. I don't want to drill an original intake however one side was already drilled for a vacuum fitting so I'll do the other.
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Regarding the location for the vacuum ports, I would consider putting them at the center of the plenums rather than into individual runners, The original port in the runner would have been for a brake booster. At the plenum center there will be less pulsation so should be better for the MAP sensor. My engine with OEM EFI had the port in the center and the port in the Aussie Speed manifold i'm using was in the rear runner, so I drilled a new port for my MAP sensor in the plenum of the Aussie Speed. Maybe do a little more research on this.

Great looking intake!
 
Still dragging the chain and waiting for others to finish a few things, shipper for new window channel (Rear windows), painter - panels, engine builder and trimmer. I can't have the hoodlining installed until rear side window channels are fitted as I'm not disassembling everything later to install glass and runners.

I had a machinist turn up new delron window winder bushings for all window winders as nothing was available and other GM etc wasn't compatible. The OEM peened rivets (Window winder mechanisms) were ground down, drilled and tapped for button head screws, Some thread lock to secure after new rollers were greased and installed. Machinist states that nylon rollers aren't as resilient as delron and will wear out.


As NPT brake fittings aren't permitted I had the hydraulic stoplight switch block modified for inverted flare fittings with crush washers. I'll install switch on single 1/4" rear line. It's easy to mount under dashboard to brake pedal assembly with an insulated P-clip. Wiring fits under weatherproof cap and attaches to terminals (Under car fitting).


I sourced some OEM style bitumen board (Impregnated cardboard) that was used by manufacturers to line inside of doors and trunk lids rather than use Dynamat as I did elsewhere. More authentic?:rolleyes:


Insofar as ported vacuum, Stromberg was of assistance
 
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I still need to install this Limeworks 700R auto detent behind the OEM Hydramatic column shifter but need to drill an additional hole for 'P" as original gate doesn't feature a Park detent.


I'm looking for these SS trims (Item 2) from any 40's GM product as polished has lost them, they attach to vertical division bar and prevent scratching to painted finish.


The guy that reproduced the decals for my 64 Fairlane also did this frame stencil that was originally painted on outside of LH rail under driver's door.

 
It's been a while since I've posted, sold the house and downsizing before some US travel.
My painter finally got around to putting some colour on the doors, trunk and fenders. All that's left is the hood, front fenders, door caps, gravel shields and boot scrapers.
I located some OEM style bitumen impregnated cardboard sheeting and will line inside of trunk rather than using dynamat.
I couldn't wait to see what my NOS Hydramatic emblem looked like but still need to adjust doors. I located some tan webbing to insulate rear fenders, love the colour. A lot better than black or other available colours and compatible with OEM 2-tone scheme
I'M just about ready to install all the window regulators, new window channels and side glass. Front and rear will need to wait until the wiring is completed, then the hoodlining can be installed. I've new springs in the regulators and had to get new delron (?) rollers and other parts machined as nothing else was compatible





I'm j
 
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Very nicely done on the slash apron rubbers. Those staples look stock. I tried several times on my splash aprons..couldn’t make anything that looked like a stock staple. Ended up glueing the rubbers on. Worked well and the only way anyone will see them is if I run them over and they look up….Again very nice fitment on all of your panels. Hard to do….👍
 
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JohnnyBgood said:
Very nicely done on the slash apron rubbers. Those staples look stock. I tried several times on my splash aprons..couldn’t make anything that looked like a stock staple. Ended up glueing the rubbers on. Worked well and the only way anyone will see them is if I run them over and they look up….Again very nice fitment on all of your panels. Hard to do….👍
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I went to the local rubber shop to source 3mm flat rubber. I then traced out template and cut the rubber. The staples are zinc coated wire from the garden section of the hardware store that I cut and bent to replicate OEM staples. After punching the holes in the rubber with a scribe I pushed the staples through and bent the back over as per OEM. I also did the radiator support and both door baffles where the window bottoms out. This was a PITA as all the spot welds had to be drilled out and replaced by 4mm rivnuts. There's no other way to put them on. That square rubber is the bottom stop for door glass channel.


 
I dyna-matted both front doors and only have 1 x sheet left for transmission cover. 4 x large boxes in total to cover the entire interior, roof, floors, firewall, trunk! Internal doors may look flat however there are a LOT of different contours, pressings and recesses etc that need to be worked to remove air bubbles and enhance adhesion. Measure twice, cut once with no wastage!
Front 1/4 glasses are in along with vertical division bar, all new rubbers and window run channels from Steele. A PITA to source and replace those small 1/4 glass rivets. Car should be nice and quiet and well insulated now.;)




 
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Like the idea about the garden wire. I still have some window fuzzies that I haven’t figured out how to install yet..they were stapled..going to try your method. That must of been some amazing stapl gun they had when they made those ..right through the rubber and metal in one shot. I also used Steele brand rubber products for most of my rubbers and seals. I had got all of my gaps before hand..mistake. All of the rubbers are fairly stiff. They don’t feel like it to the hand but when they are on and you close the door or trunk lid…it’s a hard close. I’ve had mine on for 6 years now and they are only now starting to close properly..without having to slam the doors. I was told by a body man not to adjust anything. The rubbers will move into their position over time. He said if you adjust anything now you will be doing it down the road again and I know I dont have the physical abilities that I had 6 years ago so I would have to get someone else to work on my car which I don’t really like to do…just some food for thought..again great idea about the garden wire…
 
It's been while since my last update, I've been travelling Canada and USA in a camper van and heading back over on 1/1/24 to continue with my odyssey. In the interim I've had 17x7 steel wheels made up and powder coated in OEM colour. The 18x8 Boyd Magnetos are TOO modern looking for the style I'm aiming for. The steelies came with SS trim bands as per OEM 1946. In addition the Wheelsmith modified my NOS hubcaps to suit the new wheels.

Car is now on the hoist to finish and mount all the air/fluid lines on underside of the frame. All the brake calipers have been rebuilt and installed completing the suspension installation. The ride height sensors still need to be mounted on frame on each corner. The compressor, airtank and swirl pot have been mounted in the trunkl with some plumbing to finish things.

I retained all the old window run channels, verticals and fuzzies etc as templates when making new ones. In addition I installed new 1/4 glass rubbers and fitted all new side glass to the new lower frames as the OEM ones were rusted away. A PITA locating semi-tubular rivets for pivots and locking bar, these are peened over similar to frame rivets as pop rivets as too deep when installed and would foul on glass not allowing it to be tapped into place.

I had new nylon window rollers machined (12) for each winder (4) as the OEM rollers had deteriorated and nothing is available aftermarket to suit or could be modified to suit. Each roller is 2 x halves to capture and slide bracket as window is wound up and down. I installed new return springs, 1946 Chevrolet and rebuilt the door lock with new Chevy springs. The headlamp buckets were powdercoated when everything else was done, all new springs and seals etc were fitted as well as new 7" domed QH headlamps to match the OEM sealed beams.

I still need to adjust the doors however I installed the NOS stainless steel vent shades that I had stored away and will soon fit the NOS [1948] gravel shields on the rear fenders as 1946 and 1947 still used rubber.;)




 
Insofar as the rear window run channel and tight upper corners, steady steady wins the race to avoid kinking and/or bending the SS bead.
NOS wiper towers were installed, Newport Wipers windshield wiper motor is next to be installed along with operating cowl vent. Damn tight under dash with AC and 90 degree brake pedal assembly installed. All the brake lines to bulk head fittings are installed. I'm running an in-line electric brake switch above the pedal assembly. I fitted new drilled and slotted brake rotors along with new hubs.
OEM tank was modified for an in-tank electric fuel pump to 1/2" supply line with service access through a port in trunk floor.
The window sash channels are available from Steele Rubber as was almost everything else. Once welded up I had these along with all the window mechanisms, door lock assemblies etc etc zinc plated along with all the nuts, bolts and other hardware.





 
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