1935 Ford Project -2Dr Sedan to 3W Coupe

Thanks.

Ah so! At the risk of showing my lack of knowledge and as the subject is a retroactive item now its redundant , so just some thinking (?) out loud here. I have to practice my electrical skills, as this old fool is going to try a fuel injection engine transplant!

So the old-time ammeter was in series with all the current (except starter) went through the meter (dangerous), newer cars (1950 12v) dash ammeters weren't, they where shunt voltmeters calibrated to read in amps that are wired in parallel to sense battery voltage.

The circuit for your (and my) voltmeter is from a switched power source through the gauge and to ground, if you getting a short (and you are) then I think maybe its not the gauge but somewhere in the circuit that feeds it is shorted to ground.

But what the hell do I know! :)
 
I had a photo shoot with Steve Locke (local automotive photographer) on the Collingwood pier (spit) on Saturday. Here are a few of my crappy phone pics while the process was being done by the pro....

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....and the 'Money Shot'.....by Steve..

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Last photo...Nice shot.

What lighting trick did he use to tone down the sun light?

Some kind of filter voodoo. That side of the car was actually in shadow so he used a light on a pole w/ battery pack to throw some light in the shadow as an accent on the door and body reveals. That exotic camera also had a built-in wifi system so it instantly transmits the image to his phone and he can send it via the net anywhere quick as a bunny....
 
....another 'money shot'....so weird shooting into the sun with light suppressing all the darkness in the shadows.....

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Not sure how I missed these recent photos and updates but DAMNNN the coupe looks so sweet!!

Are you doing a photoshoot for a magazine??
 
Thanks for the nice comments, guys.
Dean: Back in March when I was at the Motorama Car Show I was approached by 4 photographers but only one followed through for a shoot -Steve Locke (Barrie, Ont. or FB).
I may contact a few mags with some of these shots and see if there is any interest....
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Haha....thanks for the prompt. I've got about 1600 miles on it now so here is an overview of the build and results.

Chassis: stock '35 frame, Chassis Engineering front axle w/4" drop, wide five wheels, Buick front drums, Vega cross-steer box. Brakes work but need some 'tuning'. Generally: no issues here.

Drivetrain: '58 Olds 371 engine rebuilt, '39 Ford 3 speed transmission, closed driveshaft, stock/rebuilt '37 Ford rear axle w/3.25 gears. Need some improvements here. The 3 speed trans (no synchro in 1st) takes a ton of getting used to -very low speed gear changes, engine braking at every stop, anticipating every traffic light change in the distance. It was fun for a while and now it's a pain in the ass (so call me a pussy). Planning to upgrade to an '86 S10 T5 and it's in the rebuilld shop right now. Also going to change to an open driveshaft to avoid other problems in the future. The trans shop will provide gears tailored for the rear wheel tire diameter -the 750/16's have a diameter of 31" so even the O.D. can be tuned. The trans itself is relatively narrow so we're hoping the 'X' frame will only need minor surgery. A hydraulic clutch is also in the works. The adaptor and/or bellhousing will come from Ross Racing Engines (Ohio).

Body: The bare metal body has worked out well and requires a little more than a regular wash/polish that any car guy would do (i.e. 2-3 weeks). The car is always stored in a heated garage and some times gets a minor haze of rust on a few areas but nothing serious and it's easily removed with an abrasive pad. I usually first wipe it down with 50/50 vinegar and water, then dry thoroughly, and polish with Auto-Glym (w/resin) all over -headlights, taillights, bumpers, louvers, ....everything. If I'm going to a show, I'll use Mother's Detailer on the body reveals to pick up the highlights.
I use Rainex on the glass and polish on the tires.
I have installed weather stripping to the doors and trunk and used a combination of dum-dum and seam sealer wherever necessary. I used cowl lacing on the cowl and rad and put the rubber buttons on to stop the hood rattles.

Interior: Bare as it should be -just seats, a 'better-than-nothing' carpet set from Crappy Tire, and the instrument panel. It is more than delightful to cruise this wonderful landscape with the windshield open (but at night the moths and bugs hurt like Hell when they hit your face). The dash illumination lights reflect back into the cockpit from the open windshield which gives an airplane environment at night, as well.

Worth It: I giggle like a schoolgirl on my tours around here unbothered by the engine noise, exhaust noise, wind noise, sheet metal rattles, and unknown sounds made by a real hot rod. And sacrificing an interior and paint for the body mods and running bare metal, was the best decision I've ever made.

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...allllrighty! Where were we? Up until recently I've been pleasure cruising as the shakedown miles mount up - 1800 miles so far....and as of this minute, we're buried in snow and shakedown runs are suspended...

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The only upgrade that's coming (collecting parts) is an S10 T5 trans, a hydraulic throughout bearing, and an open driveshaft install. The T5 has been rebuilt and a custom bellhousing to mate it to the '58 Olds 371, has been received from Ross Racing Engines.....

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While waiting for parts, I started playing with panels to separate the trunk from the cabin. Once these are in, I'll do the inside quarters (rear passenger area), the front kick panels, and half of the doors (leaving the handles and mechanics exposed). The inside door skins have been 'refreshed' with wire wheels and painted with semi-gloss clear....

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In the near future, I'll be having a fun winter drive to Oddball kustoms for the transmission surgery and drive shaft replacement......
 
Have you considered wiping the body down with fluid film?. Been using it for years, wonderful stuff. It was recommended to me many years ago by a friend who was a retired marine biologist and he said they use it to prevent rust on bare metal tools and equipment that was subject to salt water. It does leave a nice soft sheen so if you are interested, try it on something else first to ensure it doesn't ruin the look you want.