1935 Ford Project -2Dr Sedan to 3W Coupe
- Thread starter bgbdlinc
- Start date
On sale at PA
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/fluid-film-penetrant-and-lubricant/A-p6420392e
I'm interested in what it will do also....
Does that stuff stay wet or oily? And if you decided to paint it after all would that be a problem? I did ask one of the guys down south running in bare steel what he was putting on it but danged if I can remember what he said he was using? it must be that part timers thing when you get older. Linc that 5 spd will be nice in there I know quite a few guys using them on their flat heads as well and they love em.
Linc that 5 spd will be nice in there I know quite a few guys using them on their flat heads as well and they love em.
Does that stuff stay wet or oily? And if you decided to paint it after all would that be a problem? I did ask one of the guys down south running in bare steel what he was putting on it but danged if I can remember what he said he was using? it must be that part timers thing when you get older.
Gibbs Oil brand is what a lot of guys use down south. When I was at GNRS this year I talked to a guy that had his bare metal car wiped down with Gibbs ,I felt it ,it wasn't oily or sticky at all. The guy swears by it. Apparently also, you can paint right over it without any other prep. If you google Gibbs, you can find lots of discussion about it. sorry to hi-jack linc. back to your amazing build
bgbdlinc
Well-Known Member
As I understand it those products are oil penetrants that actually go way below the surface. What I don't know is whether a primer/sealer will be enough to stop bleed-through when painted. Gibbs is similar to very thin oils used for cleaning guns and other delicate mechanical devices.....
1800 is gett8ng to be quite a shakedown.
bgbdlinc
Well-Known Member
1800 is gett8ng to be quite a shakedown.
....simply miles of smiles, Gary....
lucky
Active Member
They say that the road to Hell is paved with good intentions and this project may just toast my ass for all eternity.....
I've always wanted a Bonneville/dry lakes-style coupe...so I'm going for it. Not quite the Pierson Bros, the SoCal racer, the Poteet car, the Rolling Bones, or the 'Whiskey Runner', but in that sphere of influence. I recently bought a '35 Ford 2 door sedan body and frame and the idea is to make it into a 3 window coupe with a heavy chop, laidback 'A' pillars, fenderless, traditional highboy style, Olds powered, tall skinnys on wide fives, '38 Ford rear axle w/bones, bare interior, and best of all, a bare metal body (well maybe a satin clear to preserve it). Selling the fenders, running boards, spare tire carrier....
Parts are beginning to accumulate:
Body and frame -'35 Ford
Engine -1958 Olds 371
Transmission -3 or 4 speed (unknown, as yet)
Front axle -4" dropped Chassis Engineering axle
Replacement grille:
Cleaning up the replacement grille (badly pitted) and stripping the tin:
Sorry, no pics of the wide fives, as yet.
Oh my....it's getting warm in here already.....
Do you still have the original grille
bgbdlinc
Well-Known Member
I've been playing Tin Man with an amateur's heart = fancy-assed interior tins for the coupe. There is no budget for a pro interior and I tried to keep the 'Bonneville' theme, such as it is, and add a little decoration along the way. All screws are button-head Robertson (Canadian, yay) self-tapping and screwed in place. The grinder 'drawing' makes a cool 'field' or backdrop for the screws which seem to 'float' in a visual space (if I remember my art school training). It's also to contrast with the smooth, bare metal exterior of the car......
bgbdlinc
Well-Known Member
Well, the car has gone to the shop for the T5 transplant, finally (several weather delays). The adaptor plate for the 371 engine, '39 3 speed, 11" clutch and pressure plate are removed and sold except for the adaptor plate. A peak inside indicated no missing teeth, chips or anything bad in the trans. Due to the length of the engine and tight quarters at the 'X' member, the engine had to be removed to access all this stuff.
There was no simple adaptor plate available for the Olds 371 to the S10 T5, so I had to get a new bellhousing from Ross Racing Engines. It bolted up slick as shit with a new clutch and pressure plate.....
Still to come: trimming the splined shaft, creating a spacer, removing the closed driveshaft and rear bones, install new open driveshaft, build new rear bones of some sort (stronger). All of this work is by Oddball Kustoms.
There was no simple adaptor plate available for the Olds 371 to the S10 T5, so I had to get a new bellhousing from Ross Racing Engines. It bolted up slick as shit with a new clutch and pressure plate.....
Still to come: trimming the splined shaft, creating a spacer, removing the closed driveshaft and rear bones, install new open driveshaft, build new rear bones of some sort (stronger). All of this work is by Oddball Kustoms.
Nice stuff Dave.
bgbdlinc
Well-Known Member
..well, now things get serious. The main difficulty with a T5 swap is the length of the input shaft. The Neanderthal way of doing it would chop about 3/4"-1" off it and reduce the length of the splined area. This however, leaves too little left for the pilot bearing to rest on and can possibly weaken the stub when it is under load. In addition, it would reduce the splined contact area for the clutch and pressure plate. The solution is to cut as little of the input shaft as possible and fabricate a spacer between the bellhousing and transmission. We start with my brand new virgin bellhousing ($$$$$) and some fly cuts for the spacer stabilising collar....
Here is the sequential assembly:
The result is that only approx. 1/4" has to be trimmed from the input shaft and the splined area remains untouched as God intended for clutch operation
Machine work and photos courtesy of Oddball Kustoms.
Here is the sequential assembly:
The result is that only approx. 1/4" has to be trimmed from the input shaft and the splined area remains untouched as God intended for clutch operation
Machine work and photos courtesy of Oddball Kustoms.