52 Lincoln Capri Build

ratrig

ratrig

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Well, I have finally got time to tear into the Lincoln I bought last year. I ordered all the suspension parts in December and did a major border run early March to pickup the goods. I pulled the body off the frame ,stripped down both and sandblasted the frame. The plan is to remove the stock suspension and replace it with modern A arms in the front and a 4 link to a 9" rear in the back. I'm still looking for a late model engine/trans combo and a coyote with a 6 or 10 spd is at the top of my list right now. An LS would be sooo much easier and cheaper but I would fear for my life with the blue oval guys :eek:
Here's some pics so far:
Bring home the car

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Stripping off the old:
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And off to sandblast whats left
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more to come...
 
i Painted my frame with por50 . Still looks great after 10 years..but only one year on the road, any idea what your putting on it?
 
Straight arm 4 bar or a triangulated ?. I put the straight arm...I should have gone with the triangulated ...reason being when you jack the car up the rear swings over to the one side because of the pan hard bar. This limits the amount of tire I could put under the body...
 
Johnny, I will be powder coating the frame once the motor and trans have been located.
I went with a tri link from welderseries. Nice stuff. Cheaper than I could do it myself.
 
Next is to visualize the stance I want.

I put the body back on and took a hundred measurements and pics before the body comes off for the 2nd of many times I'm sure. :)

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After I decided on my ride height,track,and wheelbase I called up Scotts Hot Rods in Tn and told them what I need. I did a lot of searching of IFS builders, and It came down to only 2 that said they could make a clip for me. Of course Art Morrison was one and my first choice,but the price was double of what Scotts was. I was apprehensive about using Scotts as they had a small amount of bad reviews, but I took a chance,knowing if the quality wasn't there I would just make it work. I was basically just looking for the engineering of the suspension. I was pleasantly suprised went it arrived as it was very heavy duty and well built. Its basically a M2 clip ,but twice as strong ,designed for the heavy. It is slightly pinched in at the back to match my frame and the ride height was bang on!The tig welding on it was porn itself.:cool:

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more to come ....
 
Every time I give a bit if advice ( weather it’s asked for or not) it seems like I’m telling about what went wrong with what I did..instead of what went right...this is no different..anyways when I bought my car hauler it was powder coated from the manufacturer. After about 3 years I noticed a few cracks in the coating and slight rust colour around the cracks. Coating got dull like a flat paint. 2 years latter the coating came off in sheets. Turns out the coating got chips in it from road stones and the water got in and separated the coating from the metal. I ended up painting the bad areas with por50 and then top coating with a black barbecue paint..matched up really well. I don’t know if it was just a bad coating job or if that’s what happens to powder coating...
 
Also..really like the ride height..if you squint your eyes and use your imagination you can see what it would look like with skirts and about 2 inches out of the top...just saying...
 
Hey..that’s exactly what I’m seeing.....but now I’m squinting and I see me behind the wheel...
 
JohnnyBgood said:
Every time I give a bit if advice ( weather it’s asked for or not) it seems like I’m telling about what went wrong with what I did..instead of what went right...this is no different..anyways when I bought my car hauler it was powder coated from the manufacturer. After about 3 years I noticed a few cracks in the coating and slight rust colour around the cracks. Coating got dull like a flat paint. 2 years latter the coating came off in sheets. Turns out the coating got chips in it from road stones and the water got in and separated the coating from the metal. I ended up painting the bad areas with por50 and then top coating with a black barbecue paint..matched up really well. I don’t know if it was just a bad coating job or if that’s what happens to powder coating...
Click to expand...

I used Endura gloss black on the '56 Effie. If chipped, it was repairable/repaintable/touch up whereas powder coating isn't.

Had no problems with it over the 8 years of driving it.
 
JohnnyBgood said:
Every time I give a bit if advice ( weather it’s asked for or not) it seems like I’m telling about what went wrong with what I did..instead of what went right...this is no different..anyways when I bought my car hauler it was powder coated from the manufacturer. After about 3 years I noticed a few cracks in the coating and slight rust colour around the cracks. Coating got dull like a flat paint. 2 years latter the coating came off in sheets. Turns out the coating got chips in it from road stones and the water got in and separated the coating from the metal. I ended up painting the bad areas with por50 and then top coating with a black barbecue paint..matched up really well. I don’t know if it was just a bad coating job or if that’s what happens to powder coating...
Click to expand...

The problem with powder coating is that there is no form of chemical or mechanical adhesion it's more like a plastic envelope. Then when you get a breach in that envelope you get problems. I remember back in the mid 80's Toyota did some of their side trim like that. Metal then coated with powder coat. It wasn't long before the metal got all scabby and when you pulled it off there was no metal left, the factory fix was a replacement that was solid rubber/plastic. This is one of the reasons I will never powercoat a chassis. Another thing that can be a pain is that it is so slippery when you bolt bumper arms to it they slip around hard to get them to stay fixed in position. Or you tighten till the coating splits and then we go back to problem #1. Just my two cents not that anyone asked. lol
 
Ok, thanks for advice everyone.I welcome it. This how we learn stuff.
Here's my opinion on PC frames. I have been powder coating various components from heavy oilfield trucks to driveway gates and never experienced a problem so far.. I also repair a lot of trailers,mostly the ones from texas,which are powdercoated. The coating peels off in sheets revealing no primer coat underneath in less than 6 mos of service. They short cut the process to show a shiny new product at the dealer.I don't think this is fair comparison to what PC is.
Powder coating done right can last a long time and if you keep the color simple, it is very touch up friendly.
I have powder coated fender brackets, chain hangers, mudflap hangars,and even tow plates on on heavy haul trucks with a ton of miles on them with lots of nicks in the coating but no signs of peeling. I powder coat everything I can that will fit in the furnace :D
Thats just me.
 
ratrig said:
Ok, thanks for advice everyone.I welcome it. This how we learn stuff.
Here's my opinion on PC frames. I have been powder coating various components from heavy oilfield trucks to driveway gates and never experienced a problem so far.. I also repair a lot of trailers,mostly the ones from texas,which are powdercoated. The coating peels off in sheets revealing no primer coat underneath in less than 6 mos of service. They short cut the process to show a shiny new product at the dealer.I don't think this is fair comparison to what PC is.
Powder coating done right can last a long time and if you keep the color simple, it is very touch up friendly.
I have powder coated fender brackets, chain hangers, mudflap hangars,and even tow plates on on heavy haul trucks with a ton of miles on them with lots of nicks in the coating but no signs of peeling. I powder coat everything I can that will fit in the furnace :D
Thats just me.
Click to expand...

Lee that may be the key, it has been done the way it should be not just cutting corners to save a dime and make it look nice and shiny to sell it out the door quickly.
I believe you with the proper job done it's a different animal all together. I have to say I had a job once way back (forgot about this one) had to strip off a bunch of boxes powdercoated for Manitoba telephone? It was a nightmare job almost impossible to get off. I just at the time thought it was because they were freshly done but it could have been that they were done using the proper proceedure? I remember it was thick.
 
Bash, I resemble that. When I was working building drilling rigs, we would have to modify the shale shaker to lessen the height of the mud tank. The brand Precision used was powdercoated. You had to PPE up and grind a 2" swath around the perimeter prior to cutting. It was like trying to grind through a galvinized coating. Not nice. And after it was painted ,the first place to wear through was where it was cut and spliced. The conditions dont get much more brutal than rocks bouncing up and down in a steady stream of corrosive mud.:)
 
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