What is the rough dimensions?
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What is the rough dimensions?
Well, got about 85% done the swivel castor install, had an issue with porosity with one weld, knocked it back down with a carbide burr, sharpened a tungsten, and just for giggles, decided to check the CFM on my Flowmeter....only to discover it was only at 15 CFM.?? WTH?
Anyways, I dialed it up to 25, and went to put the tungsten back in the torch. but managed to knock the torch off the corner of the fab table.....and broke the Ceramic Gas Cup And when I checked my little spares kit, I discovered that I have no spare for the broken one
And, when mounting the castors to the 6" x 6", it seems like some of the lag bolts were nut pulling up tight (dammit!!). So, before I go and plop approx 450 lbs of mid sixties Mercury box onto my Rube Goldberg contraption, I may have to get some of these:
By using these, I can just drill the existing hole to a larger diameter, then crank the inserts in with an Allen Key, then use 1/4"-20 fasteners to pull everything up tight. The last thing I want is to lose a castor while rolling the Fab Table back over to my garage with the Merc box on board..........
So, next time around I'll make another pass with the tig and hope for no more porosity, then deal with getting everything swapped over to inserts and 1/4"-20 fasteners. Each castor (currently) has (4) lag bolts attaching it to the 6" x 6", and each 6" x 6" has (4) lag bolts through the keyholes in the 2" x 2" x 0.125" WT tubing. So that means I need (32) inserts & (32) 1/4"-20 fasteners.
James
Got all that, what I don't have is a place to do that.Rather than CNC cut (water jet or plasma) which requires programing time, I would go with tracing from your cardboard and cut with a nibbler or zip disk and clean the edge with a flapper disk.
Shaune,, Bunch of fixes to screw ups, mini tubs, dash work, replaced the floor boards and cab corners, fitment issues, then on to making it smooth and sending it to the paint shop.Details on that Neil ?
Yup, got it. Looking around for material.
Well, all the lag bolts have been removed, holes opened up, and the inserts installed! I put the swivel castors on today (did the stationary ones yesterday). Thirty five inserts later, the fab table is now mobile.Well, got about 85% done the swivel castor install, had an issue with porosity with one weld, knocked it back down with a carbide burr, sharpened a tungsten, and just for giggles, decided to check the CFM on my Flowmeter....only to discover it was only at 15 CFM.?? WTH?
Anyways, I dialed it up to 25, and went to put the tungsten back in the torch. but managed to knock the torch off the corner of the fab table.....and broke the Ceramic Gas Cup And when I checked my little spares kit, I discovered that I have no spare for the broken one
And, when mounting the castors to the 6" x 6", it seems like some of the lag bolts were nut pulling up tight (dammit!!). So, before I go and plop approx 450 lbs of mid sixties Mercury box onto my Rube Goldberg contraption, I may have to get some of these:
By using these, I can just drill the existing hole to a larger diameter, then crank the inserts in with an Allen Key, then use 1/4"-20 fasteners to pull everything up tight. The last thing I want is to lose a castor while rolling the Fab Table back over to my garage with the Merc box on board..........
So, next time around I'll make another pass with the tig and hope for no more porosity, then deal with getting everything swapped over to inserts and 1/4"-20 fasteners. Each castor (currently) has (4) lag bolts attaching it to the 6" x 6", and each 6" x 6" has (4) lag bolts through the keyholes in the 2" x 2" x 0.125" WT tubing. So that means I need (32) inserts & (32) 1/4"-20 fasteners.
James