57 Ranchero build

Thinking about that.

Looking good.
Hopefully I will have a good look at all the projects in the Shop in June when I'm at the Roadman's show.


Give me a shout when you come for the Roadman's show. I will be there as well, as long as I am not in Fernie. My son is building a house this year there, so I will be spending a lot of time there, but if I am home, you are more than welcome to come do a shop tour.
 
....impressive surgery and an entertaining update. It's all about trade-offs, possibilities, and unintended consequences, this car building process and each change/re-do makes it better.....
BTW, that Tin Woody gives me wood.....

And the tin woody belongs to a friend of mine. I am doing the sheet metal work on it. We did the floor pans last winter, and we just took the frame out from under it. Lloyd Dyck is doing his magic on the frame and suspension now. The body is back outside now so I can work on mine for awhile.
 
Test for imgur.
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https://imgur.com/MMlpMA1https://imgur.com/uYLzQzu

Yes Keith, your directions work.

Well, how do I update this thread with no previous pics? Probably not going to, but this is where I am at now.

The Fairlane roof is retained for almost the first foot above the windshield, then the Ranchero roof is in the stage of fitting before tack welding. I previously stated I lengthened the drivers compartment 2 1/2 inches, by moving the back wall of the cab rearward. Using the two door hardtop doors instead of the regular Ranchero doors. I saw the mock up of another 57 on another board, but didn't like the parallel lines of the B pillar. Ford I think are the only ones to have done that, with some of the Galaxie 500's, and the 58 to 60 square bird Tbirds. I thought it looked a little thick. So, I started looking at images of B pillars on pretty well all cars built since 1950, including modern SUV's. Almost all B pillars are tapered top to bottom slightly, or in the case of some 60's Mopars, they are tapered bottom to top.

Regardless, I mocked up this tapered B pillar, where the leading edge will parallel the A pillar. The back of the B pillar is leaned ahead quite a bit as well. I had to make a cut below the back window, on the inside of the cab, all the way across, then cut the bottom of each B pillar, so as to make the whole back window area of the cab to lean forward. I just mocked up the cardboard pattern till I got to something I thought I liked, then leaned the back window to that same angle with a digital angle finder.

I hope I like it in the end, cause there ain't no turning back now. I need to roll it out in the alley so I can stand way back and have a look but there is about 18 inches of snow out there now, and it was 36 below here this morning. Not happening just yet. I will have it welded in place before that happens, so like I said, I sure hope I like it.
 
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It worked the first time, then I tried to upload more pics to Imgur, and the screen went black when it tried to load them, and nothing happened.

I should mention that about a year and a half of my life has been spent building a new home and business for my son and daughter in law in Fernie. I haven't gotten anything done on my projects till about a month ago.

The whole build, with pics, is listed the same as it was here, but on the 57 fords forever site, for anyone that might want to look at the earlier pics. Those pics were done through photo bucket, so they are still there.

Once I get more pics uploaded onto Imgur, I will post some more recent work I have done, as well as try to keep this updated as time wears on.
 
So, John you see this is what happened, I bought a Lincoln mark 7 for the fuel injected HO 302 that I was going to use in a project that never happened, so I have a spare engine. I think I need a '57 Ford (preferably a sedan delivery or a wagon) or some other kind (always liked '57's) to put the engine into. My chances of living long enough to finish what I am doing let alone start another project are less then winning the 649, but a guy has to have a reason to get up, Right.

B.C. registration is going to be critical but you never know unless you ask,........ do you know of one? (No, I'm not senile, just a little crazy.);)

Can I high-jack your thread to show my before and after pixs ('56 Plymouth 2 door wagon) and my semi trailer tie downs re-purposed as body mounts (with clevis removed)? (I can delete the pixs?)

My Imgur posting skills are better then my mig welding! :eek:

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do you think those body mount plates are strong enough to be used for seat belt attaching points on their own too?
 
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do you think those body mount plates are strong enough to be used for seat belt attaching points too?

Yes, 3/16 thick I would think. (and they are cheap to buy), I would say that the single most critical part of a seat belt attaching system is the belt retaining bolt and if you were to bolt these in they would have the same tensile strength of the retaining bolt, also it would take a considerable force to pull the welded ones out (even with my welds). :confused:
 
Wow Ray, thats a really good idea. Might just steal that one from you.
 
Haven't found another 57 yet that I would like to have, except for the 57 retractable that Alvin Stadel has down in Columbus MT. It was basically rust free, but needed a total restoration. He was moving so I don't know if he still has it, but I can inquire if you are serious about it. He has lots of 57 parts, or had, anyway. He has a restored 57 convert, 57 two door hardtop, 57 retractable, and a 57 Tbird. And a 58 Tbird for his wife.
 
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The original Ranchero roofline is much more bulbous at the front. That is why I chose to keep the Fairlane front 10 inches or so of roof. The Fairlane roofline is lower and sleeker looking. You can see the difference with the contour gauge.


Finally got over the flu, so I finished welding up the roof today. Went really well, weld an inch, grind and planish an inch, repeat, repeat. As long as I fixed the weld warpage after each inch of welding, it came out really nice. No oil cans to chase. And its pretty damn flat across that area of the roof. I still have some final metal finishing to do, but I can address that with final body work.


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Beautiful job and just different enough to give purists convulsions trying to figure out what has been done.....
 
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So here is where we are going now. I have to finish welding the B pillars in place, whilst deciding which way to go. I am fairly sure I am going to raise the top of the box line to where the ruler is clamped in place. There are 3 photos of "no ruler", and 3 photos of the ruler in place, simulating the new line. If you look at pics of the car from the front angle, the car looks bent down right behind the B pillar.
By doing this, the box side will be about an inch and a half above the bottom of the drivers window, but it will be about the same height as the bottom of the rear cab window. I am leaning toward this for the final design.
I won't know for sure till I finish welding the B pillar, cause I don't want to cut out the old package tray until the back of the cab is firmly in place. The old package tray is keeping the rear quarter panel tops right where they are supposed to be. Don't want it to spring out of shape. If I get the B pillars welded in place today, I will cut the package tray out later on, hopefully this afternoon or this evening, barring any visits from the short people in my life, which is still my top priority. The shortest of the 7 of them thinks I am god himself, so I spend as much time with him as possible without making anyone think I have any favourites. Those of you who are grandpas know what I mean.
Back on topic. Hope this all makes sense.
 
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Worked all day on this. Got the B pillars welded up solid now. I am not going to finish the front part of the B pillar just yet. Going to try to get the top of the box perimeter and tailgate all mocked up and tacked in place first.
These pics should hopefully give everyone the idea that I am going. The front end of the box rail, right behind the B pillar is right where I want it height wise, I think, but the BACK END US MOCKED UP ONLY AND 1 1/8 INCH HIGH. Once it goes down 1 1/8 inches, it should just start to disappear behind the fin when viewed from the side. The way it is right now, it sticks up like a sore thumb and look like hell. I can't get it down enough without doing some more work to the Fairlane quarter tops but I was tired, back was killing me and I was damn hungry.


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James was asking how I was going to get the B pillar to flow into the box rail. I am planning on cutting the "transition piece" just above where it meets the Fairlane quarter lengthwise, then put a piece in there to raise it up so it mates with the box rail height. The transition piece obviously still needs to be sliced and diced so it has the same angle as the back of the cab. You can see by that original piece how much the back wall of the cab has been leaned forward.

I might add also, if I haven't before, that the Fairlane roofline is 1 1/4 inches lower than the Ranchero roofline. Two totally different windshields. I figured I would have to chop the back window somewhat as the roof has been lowered that amount. Turns out, with blind luck, after leaning the back window ahead, it was absolutely perfect to mate up again. Didn't have to chop the back window opening, and I shouldn't have to do anything to the stainless window trim either.

Wish that were the same for the chrome box top trim. I will have to bend and reshape both the top and bottom corners to allow for the back of the cab leaning ahead. Hopefully everything else will be a cakewalk.
 
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Awesome work, and thanks for the update! I kinda like the panel dipping at the B pillar. A little bit different of a look.. but i guess that would give a little more of a hint of the cars origins
 
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I got a little more done over the weekend. Just in case anyone forgot how bad this thing was when I started, here are a few pics of the old rusty Ranchero pieces. I have to make all the new pieces from scratch, and I figured out I have to start from the tailgate, and get it mounted, then see where the top of it is. Then, I can put the rest of the top of the box rails in place, and that will determine where the box rails will join the B pillar.
 
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Here are the back inner corners of the box sides. The box sides are 16 gauge, so I figured I would make these the same. I was originally going to repair only the bottom of these panels, but it didn't turn out that nice, as I started to do that. So, I abandoned that idea and figured I would make the full panel from scratch. These were more like blacksmithing than metal shaping, as the 16 gauge is really tough to hammer into shape. I clamped the pieces down to the work table, and used a couple of pieces of 3/16 thick material to pound the reveal into so as to get a uniform thickness. Had to move and reclamp them several times to get it all done but it worked fairly well.

I got the tapered curve put in the back end by making a whole lot of very small bends with the box & pan brake. That made a few little ridges that I had to hammer out so it was smooth again, but it came out okay.

I enclosed a few pics of the chisels and such that I use to hammer the lines into the panel with. Just simple brick chisels, and cold chisels that I shape to how I want the ends so as not to mark the panels too badly. I always round over the corners, or they mark badly.

Some of the pics are slightly distorted, and make the panels look crooked. Just a camera thing I guess.

After I got these two pieces made, I started repairing the rust on the tailgate inner panel. NO pics of that yet.
 
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