1950 Mercury custom build
- Thread starter K13
- Start date
It 48" 16 Gauge.
https://www.kingcanada.com/en/produ...ng-machine/kc-bp4816-48-x-16-ga-box-pan-brake
I got it from Federated tool in Ontario. Shipping was fast (it was 9 days from ordering to having it. I am just outside Edmonton) and reasonable and they wheeled it right into my garage. There must be delays in getting brakes from China right now as lot's of people were out of stock when I was looking. It's a lot better built than the one KMS sells. I was in there today looking at them and this one is quite a bit heavier construction.
https://www.kingcanada.com/en/produ...ng-machine/kc-bp4816-48-x-16-ga-box-pan-brake
I got it from Federated tool in Ontario. Shipping was fast (it was 9 days from ordering to having it. I am just outside Edmonton) and reasonable and they wheeled it right into my garage. There must be delays in getting brakes from China right now as lot's of people were out of stock when I was looking. It's a lot better built than the one KMS sells. I was in there today looking at them and this one is quite a bit heavier construction.
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I’ve bought several king products over the years. I’m very hard on my tools and the king products have never let me down. I was very happy with the quality but I stopped buying them a few years ago because when ever I lent them out I never got them back or the stuff I got back wasn’t what I lent out...hosers...I now have lender tools that are already broken before I lend them out.
Well even thought there has been a little bit of a break in progress posts I have still been plugging along. I have been doing a bunch of welding so not super exciting to post every day so here is a bit of a run down. I decided that it would be easier to get a bunch of it done before I put the patch panel in so I could more easily access the welds for planishing. This is basically welding in the window to the roof and quarer panel.
Then I did some of the roof seams on the passenger side of the car. As you can see I still have more to do. These are not fun to do. Hard to reach and find a steady position to weld. So much so I am contemplating taking the patch panel out of the other side so I can do the drivers side as it will be even worse without the access of the big hole. I am going to see if I can just sit on the packaging tray first but….
Finally, to give my back a rest, I filled in where someone at some point had cut some giant holes for taillights in the rear of the quarter panels. I think they were going to use some sort of 60’s big round taillight (falcon style) as there were a couple in a box of junk that came with the car so those needed to be filled. I filled the factory holes as well. I think I am going to run a Bettancourt/Winfield kit type light at the back but still deciding.
Haha I just noticed you can see all the shit that was in the car when I got it in these pictures. I need to clean that all up at some point as well.
Then I did some of the roof seams on the passenger side of the car. As you can see I still have more to do. These are not fun to do. Hard to reach and find a steady position to weld. So much so I am contemplating taking the patch panel out of the other side so I can do the drivers side as it will be even worse without the access of the big hole. I am going to see if I can just sit on the packaging tray first but….
Finally, to give my back a rest, I filled in where someone at some point had cut some giant holes for taillights in the rear of the quarter panels. I think they were going to use some sort of 60’s big round taillight (falcon style) as there were a couple in a box of junk that came with the car so those needed to be filled. I filled the factory holes as well. I think I am going to run a Bettancourt/Winfield kit type light at the back but still deciding.
Haha I just noticed you can see all the shit that was in the car when I got it in these pictures. I need to clean that all up at some point as well.
Well I got the passenger side fit and mostly welded in place. I have a couple of areas the weld pulled the panel more than I was expecting and left some gaps that were larger than I liked. You can see where my HAZ got bigger in a couple of places as I needed to use a thicker welding rod to fill the gap. Thankfully most of it was in areas that had enough shape to them that it didn't make too big of a mess of the panel although I am going to have to put a bit of shape back in the panel in the lower rear area when I am planishing everything. Overall it went fairly well.
Looking good...HAZ?
Heat Affected Zone. The area that is affected by heat from he weld. When using a thicker rod I have to apply more heat to get it to melt so the discoloration around the weld is wider as the heat has spread farther into the panel which can cause more warpage.
Welds ground down and the majority of the planishing done. I thought I was being smart by moving the seam around the back window closer to the window on this side to avoid all the cuts and small pieces from the other side but failed to realize that internal bracing makes is very difficult to planish out the weld where it is now. I haven't decided if I am going to cut the brace out and planish then reinstall or just do the best I can and lead the seam. The less added work the better seems the best approach given the magnitude of the work I have to do but we will see. 
I still have to fill the cleco holes as well.
I still have to fill the cleco holes as well.
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I’m learning as you go along...so near with me....might be a dumb question but.....I have seen your planishing machine in one of your pictures..is that what you use to planish and if it is..how in the world do you use it on a car?..
So planishing is just another word for hammering....
I could but it would be more awkward than it's worth for the vast majority of it. It's hard enough reaching a lot of these welds without having to try and drag an air hose around while trying to keep the head flush with the work piece so I don't gouge it all up. The majority of my planishing is done with slappers so the amount of time it would save me isn't worth the potential hassle.
Yes and no. It involves hammering but there are different ways of "hammering" to try and achieve a smooth surface. On dolly, off dolly, using small heads like a hammer using larger surfaces like a slapper. Using files to find highs and lows etc. If you can pick up a copy of The Key to Metal Bumping by Frank Sargent. It is kind of the metal finishing bible.
Martin Book "The Key to Metal Bumping"
The Martin Tool & Forge Metal Bumping handbook is still one of the best basic reference books around. It features a great deal of information on all phases of body and fender repair work. It covers techniques, shortcuts, and timesaving tricks, as well as
www.kmstools.com
These are the slappers?
Going to order it..thanks
Yes. The one on the left is a Martin and the the other is one I made out a piece of leaf spring.
Just went to order it..book was $23... weighs 1 pound. Shipping was $25... crooks... someone scanned it and put it online for free . drive.google.com