"Another" style of Hand Amperage Control for tigs

J

James__WC

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Well, I was digging around on bangshift.com, found this vid where they made a 90 deg bend out of weld material.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGofWPf7wgU&feature=emb_title

At the end of the vid, they state: "How to fill a large gap with filler rod, and then shape it to form a smooth looking elbow. This has no practical application, but it's excellent practice for torch, heat, and filler rod control. "
And made mention of "The Tig Button", which apparently the harder you press, the more amperage you get? This is a style I've not seen previously (that doesn't mean it's brand new though:), just that I don't get out much:)

tigbutton5.jpg


youtube.com/watch?v=hICn-rTizl8

It's available here....

http://www.6061.com/tigbutton.htm
 
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Thanks for posting.

I have pretty much put the Tig idea (fantasy) on hold, seems like the need for another toy was not as great as I pretend it was. I have come to the realization that I have to prioritize my shop time and if I get distracted by something (often) nothing gets done. Something to do with the total number of sleeps available. :eek:
 
Ray: Yup, hard to spend it if you don't have it.....but here is a review I stumbled across a few days back of the PRIMEWELD TIG225X Tig that sells for well under a G note ($USD), and other than not particularly liking the foot pedal, the fellow reviewing it didn't have any other complaints.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YkWY3nVAlY

On Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Direct from US Distributor
https://primeweld.com/products/tig-225x-ac-dc-tig-welder
 
James. I can't get parts for my old Miller MIG and I have been patching it up but it's going to stop working someday. The multi-function machines used to be like most compromises, they do everything poorly but nothing really well, I think that has changed (electronics ?) and some of the combo-units are OK. When the MIG dies I will get a new combo one that has MIG and TIG and that I can get parts for. (If I last that long :))
 
Tim: If you're referring to the Tig Button, while it sounds interesting, I don't think I'd ever step up & buy one without having tried one out first.

As far as the tig goes, it's certainly priced reasonably enough, but my fear with any of the budget stuff is support. If they sell a heap, then pack up their tent and move on, that means parts availability becomes an issue, but then again, after my younger brothers dealings with Miller after having issues with his Econotig years ago, there are no guarantees, even with the big players.......

James
 
James I seem to have zero eye foot co-ordination so the hand op would be much easier for me but I heard they were a dial of some sort? Do they make them like that as well? The button squeeze thing I think if you were welding a lot your hand would cramp up I know mine would.
 
I like the idea of the hand control...unfortunately too many years in construction have left my hands shaky and I think it would be a issue....I know it was the last time I painted some car parts.but for someone with young strong hands I think it would be ideal...thanks for posting this find..
 
Ray....what model of Miller do you have and what parts do you need....one of the shops near here is closing up next year and he has lots of parts for older machines in the back bins. I would need a model and part number and I could go and see what he has for you...
 
Neil: There are several styles, both linear, and rotary, mine is rotary, see comments near links below (spoiler, not a fan of linear slide type)

https://www.arc-zone.com/remote-amperage-controls



Main Page (hand controls are the third from the left little red tab along the top of screen)
https://www.ckworldwide.com/

here are the sub category links individually

Steady grip
https://www.ckworldwide.com/steady-grip™.html


Rotary (like a caterpillar track)
https://www.ckworldwide.com/rotary.html


Wheel
https://www.ckworldwide.com/wheel.html

Linear (**this appears similar to the style of the Miller control my bro had on his 250 Synchrowave, and after screwing up the second one, he quit:( They don't seem to like being in an environment where there's fine grinder dust (conductive), and it gets into the control. So I would not recommend this style)
https://www.ckworldwide.com/linear.html

Bash and scratch said:
James I seem to have zero eye foot co-ordination so the hand op would be much easier for me but I heard they were a dial of some sort? Do they make them like that as well? The button squeeze thing I think if you were welding a lot your hand would cramp up I know mine would.
Click to expand...
 
I have found a tig set up I think I'm going to try it's off amizon for 75 bucks I checked with the millar dealer here that I've spent a fourtune with them, and they've agreed to check it out when I get it .
they are going to help me hook it up to my millar buzz box they say I'll have to scratch start but they are good set ups I'll let you know how it works out
 
stovbolt said:
I have found a tig set up I think I'm going to try it's off amizon for 75 bucks I checked with the millar dealer here that I've spent a fourtune with them, and they've agreed to check it out when I get it .
they are going to help me hook it up to my millar buzz box they say I'll have to scratch start but they are good set ups I'll let you know how it works out
Click to expand...

Hi there Stove,
Boiler tubes were, and probably still are, welded with the scratch start TIG method, and with great results. When you end the weld, you have to make a quick "run-off", and break the arc, as you will not have a foot pedal to gradually lower the amperage to zero. Drop back in here when you get set up, and if help is needed, feel free to ask.

All my best to you...........Bgbkwndo.
 
Old Ray said:
A idle and useless mind wonders why ? :confused:
Click to expand...

Hello Ray,
I haven't been ignoring your question, but have been doing a little research as to if and why the scratch TIG method is still used to weld boiler tubes. I contacted my so, a boilermaker/welder, and asked him that question.
Scratch TIG is still used, along with some lift TIG applications. The main reason that more sophisticated welding methods are not used is the lack of versatility of this type of machine. When rebuild jobs are undertaken, a welding machine must be capable of performing every task from high amperage, carbon-arc gouging, stick welding, and TIG welding. Also, the atmosphere around most jobs is very dusty, and delicate electronics don't always fare well in such conditions. Budgets don't often, if ever have enough money in them to fund the rental or purchase of every specialty welding machine one would like to have on site. Another thing just came to mind, Ray, and it falls back to that old saying: if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Keep in mind also, that most repair jobs run two, ten or twelve hour shifts every day, and there is usually many activities happening at the same time, in confined spaces, so the more robust a machine can be translates into no or very little downtime.
Sorry for the rambling on, just trying to be helpful.

Best regards to you..............Bgbkwndo.
 
Hi, thanks for the info. My part time neighbour has something to do with the masonry tiles / brick replacement inside cooking / cooling towers and from what he says I can imagine the turmoil and conditions that goes on during a refit. (I'm glad its him).
 
James__WC said:
Yup, I recall seeing setups along the lines of what's in the pic below in the Pulp Mill just south of Grande Prairie........

miller-cst-280-8-pack-rack-907365-38.jpg



https://store.cyberweld.com/micst2808ra9.html
Click to expand...

As a welding foreman, I recall supervising the set-up of many 8-packs like this. Now, how do you differentiate each set of cables from each other, sometimes 150feet or more from it's source? I found that the easiest to install, most visible, longest lasting and most cost effective method was the use of coloured electrical tape. A couple of wraps around the end of each and every cable in a run, a wrap around the pull handle of the machine, in a variety of colours and combinations sure cut down or eliminated confusion during the job. This procedure was all done during the preparation phase of each job.
Sorry to take this thread sideways...........just my $0.02 worth.

Bgbkwndo.
 
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