33 Vicky redo

[Tooltime]

Good one Tim, you will be happy you have re done everything again, a pain but will be much better when you are done, I have faith in you brother Oh well you are making great progress at least, I can see the straight away now with what I have been doing to

Good to hear JT!!!!!!

Sent you an e-mail but you haven't responded

 

[Tooltime]

I found a calendar a few years back with the same body as ours and if you look closely at the body line it raises up at the rear of the door!!!!!!!!!!



I thought I would throw that in before continuing with the posting of the rest of the redo

I think I will just post some pictures of what I am doing without much explaining to keep from making it boring !!!!!!!!!! Mostly sanding and alignment of the fender/ running board area's!!!

 

[Tooltime]

These pictures pretty much show what is happening with the body!!!

Some spots are defects from my first go round and some are from 50,000 miles of road rash!!!! The alignment issues of panels comes from doing the original work on the floor vs up on a hoist at eye level

 

[Tooltime]

One new item so far is making new hood sides from 18 ga. steel to replace the fiberglass ones.

Using 3/4" MDF I cut out a hammer form to shape the cutouts around. Went out to Larry's Hotrod Cafe and used our 8' break to put a bend on the top and under his supervision started the process of rounding over the cutout edges. I thought " oh this won't take long " 2 six hour days later I brought them home and spent maybe another 4-5 hrs finessing them and fitting them to the car. Had to make some mounting brackets for the bottom edge and dimple the top for tapered machine screws.







Used a piece of steel with a 3/16" hole and over counter sunk the opening.

Then using a second piece of steel and c-clamp as press made dimples for the machine screws. I had done the same with the Model A hood sides!!!!




One of the problems on the Model A and to some extent on this car was as I tightened the screws the friction would twist the paint off.

I found some #8 ss finishing washers at the local hardware store and found I could use the same system to flatten them out as a counter sunk washer. I am going to set them in some RTV after paint so that I am not tightening the screws against the paint



HHHHHMMMMM that's not the right picture of the washers!!!!! This is the failed attempt to grind the rounded edges off 3 at a time!!!!
I will take a picture of the proper washers shortly and post!!!!

 

[351CFalcon]

One trick I learned from assembling the F100 after being painted was to use Vaseline under the screw head.
That allows you to tightened the screw without damaging the paint, then wipe the excess off.

 

[Tooltime]

As the work on the exterior progresses another area to be looked after is the interior wood and leather!!!!!

The wood was always wavy from not being able to flatten the Carpathian Elm Burl veneer originally !!!

I found an epoxy flood coat system and applied it to all the wood area's on the dash and door panels











I have also sent the entire interior panels and seats to a lad suggested to me by a friend. He is in Peterborough Ont and will be re-dying the leather that has faded terribly
You can see the outlines of the door handle/arm rest in the above pictures

 

[Tooltime]

One trick I learned from assembling the F100 after being painted was to use Vaseline under the screw head.
That allows you to tightened the screw without damaging the paint, then wipe the excess off.

That is an awesome idea

I will use it on the bolts that will be tightened permanently or until the next time it has to come apart!!!!!!!!! LoL

 

[James__WC]

The bodyman that got me started in the trade used to take a very short piece of 3M Strip Caulk (also called DumDum by some) he would then take that short piece and roll it out to be approx 1/8" in diameter, then make a ring that had an inside diameter just big enough to allow the fender bolt to pass through. As soon as you start to tighten the bolts, the strip caulk compresses and ends up making a thin layer under the washer. This layer allows the fender to be slide back/forward or in/out to get correct alignment without the bolt ever making contact with the paint.
Once the fender is where you want it, and the bolts are fully tightened, you just remove whatever has been squeezed out from under the bolts........
It used to be available in two colours, a very light gray, or black, but in my google search to find images tonight, all I could find was the black??

James

One trick I learned from assembling the F100 after being painted was to use Vaseline under the screw head.
That allows you to tightened the screw without damaging the paint, then wipe the excess off.

 

[Rusty Olds]

Nice stuff Tim, you will be pleased with all your work on the hood sides when you are done.

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Just a heads up about that epoxy finish you put on the wood it will yellow over the years. Ive put it over wood ,metal,paper ..almost everything and it always yellows. It enhances the wood colours on some and just makes it look weird on others...sunlight will speed up the yellowing. Haven’t found a way to stop the it..just saying..

 

[Tooltime]

The bodyman that got me started in the trade used to take a very short piece of 3M Strip Caulk (also called DumDum by some) he would then take that short piece and roll it out to be approx 1/8" in diameter, then make a ring that had an inside diameter just big enough to all the fender bolt to pass through. As soon as you start to tighten the bolts, the strip caulk compresses and ends up making a thin layer under the washer. This layer allows the fender to be slide back/forward or in/out to get correct alignment without the bolt ever making contact with the paint.
Once the fender is where you want it, and the bolts are fully tightened, you just remove whatever has been squeezed out from under the bolts........
It used to be available in two colours, a very light gray, or black, but in my google search to find images tonight, all I could find was the black??

James

Another great idea

Thanks to the great information highway another idea shared

 

[Tooltime]

Nice stuff Tim, you will be pleased with all your work on the hood sides when you are done.

Thanks Gary !!!!!!! it will come back together if I ever stop tearing it apart

 

[Tooltime]

Just a heads up about that epoxy finish you put on the wood it will yellow over the years. Ive put it over wood ,metal,paper ..almost everything and it always yellows. It enhances the wood colours on some and just makes it look weird on others...sunlight will speed up the yellowing. Haven’t found a way to stop the it..just saying..

Well I didn't really like to hear that

Thanks though for the heads up!!!!!!!!!!

Confusor research here I come

I could sand and coat with a polyurethane or similar that has UV inhibitors ?????

 

[JohnnyBgood]

I could sand and coat with a polyurethane or similar that has UV inhibitors ?????

Never tried that...I would try a test piece just to make sure that the 2 don’t react with each other. When I did a chessboard with light and dark veneers after about 6 or 7 years the light wood went yellow but the darker would had a deeper tone to it. Really liked the dark wood. Since you have a darker wood there I’m thinking it will enhance the colour rather than hurting it. Didn’t mean to alarm you.

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Just did some reading about the yellowing...you are on the right track with the UV protective coating....but you have to put it on the wood before you put the epoxy on...having said that when you do a paper product with the epoxy you have to seal the paper before you put the epoxy on....I did this but mine still yellowed after being on the wall....but in the sunlight...

 

[Tooltime]

Just did some reading about the yellowing...you are on the right track with the UV protective coating....but you have to put it on the wood before you put the epoxy on...having said that when you do a paper product with the epoxy you have to seal the paper before you put the epoxy on....I did this but mine still yellowed after being on the wall....but in the sunlight...

Just an update on the epoxy

I had watched this video on Oregon Burls build of a 32 dash for a customer. They had used the Stone Coat Counter top material on it, so that's were I got the idea from!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ej_b2VOqnU

I emailed them Sunday night and yesterday morning Greg emailed me back at 8 am our time which is 6 am Oregon time!!!!!!!!!!

His email quote

"Stone Coat epoxy has UV protection. Art Coat has the most UV
protection and that is what you need for non-yellowing
Hope this helps.
Greg "

I explained that I had already used the SCC regular Epoxy vs the Art Coat

His response

" That has UV also. it is what I used for the project we did " and " If you used their regular countertop epoxy you will be fine. This dash and panels looks great!"

I certainly appreciate your concerns re the yellowing and now time will tell!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Whew...that’s good that you used the right stuff...never was anything like that when I was doing it. Hope it works out for you..gotta love the finish the epoxy gives...looks like it’s a foot deep...nice.

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Any updates?

 

[Tooltime]

Time to update

With all the social distancing going on I thought maybe an update would help entertain the good folks of the forum

A thought about the mindset over the last week or so!!!!!!!!!

In the spring last year while getting the vehicles ready for the spring/summer runs my wife came out to the garage and made the suggestion that I should go to town!!!!!!!!! Without a need to I said "why" to which she says " you have been in the work shop for 14 days now and I think you need to socialize some!!!" and I answered " and your point is???"

Early last week upon us being told to stay home, I can honestly say it felt weirdly different even though I had lots to do without need to go to town!!!!!!!!!!

That said we carry on!!!!!!!!

The last picture I had shown was a feeble attempt to make a counter sunk washer!!! here is an updated one




I also said that I had sent the interior panels and seats off to get the leather restored. Only the red areas are leather with the gray being vinyl. The red has faded out to almost a brownish red on the most exposed areas. Here are the before and after shots












To say I am impressed would be an understatement

I would say that they are 110% and the price Phil quoted was the price I paid !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Tooltime]

We had attended a car show in Myrtle Beach in the fall of 2018 with some friends we have met from the original Canadian Hotrod Tour to Deuce Days in 2007, Wayne and Barb, Norm and Jean

While we were there, there was a sub show for F body GM's. While looking through the show area there was a vendor showing conversions from the LT-1 optispark system over to the LS individual coil pack, crank position sensor platform that utilizes the existing LT wiring harness and the ECM is repined to match the LT plugs for the computer

While talking to sales guy, he told us that the 95 camero just over from them had the conversion installed. We made our way to the car and the discussions ensued!!!!!!!! He was extremely happy with the kit and the tune ability of the LS ECM. He was from Florida and asked where we were from and we said Ontario Canada. He thought the system came from Canada somewhere

When we got home I asked Mr. Google to find the company Torqhead and low and behold they are in London Ontario!!!!!!!!

Because the 33 had started acting up that same fall and it appeared the optispark had finally decided it was done, I didn't license it last summer in anticipation of this winters redo. Over the coarse of the summer the possible change over was discussed extensively and I ordered the system from Torqhead just before Christmas and it arrived before New Years

These are some of the system unboxing and temporarily set on the intake!!!

I also had the pieces powder coated to match the care at a local powder coaters . Burgundy like the upper body and fire orange to match the pinstripe on the body line