1979 Mustang Indy Pace Car: Tubbed/Caged: The Pacecar Chronicles

James__WC

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Alright, to start off, I've owned this car since the May long weekend.....of 1986. I drove it, bracket raced it, and generally had a TON OF FUN that first summer. Then decided that I wanted to step it up a notch or two, so spent the late fall into the early part of 1987 looking for a viable FORD "Roller" that already had chassis work done. Only came up with one viable lead that didn't require an international flight to go check out. It was a Ford Fairmont built by the Alston Chassis dealer in Saskatchewan (Allan Hopkins??).
The pics in the ad in the Auto Trader/Old Car Trader showed what appeared to be a VERY nicely done car, however @ $14,000.00, not anywhere close to a bargain, or within my means at the time:(
So, in the end, after conferring with my friend Steve Rutherford, we decided we would attack the car I already had. So, starting sometime in Mar/1987, we began, the two of us working most Saturdays & Sundays for a good long time, and I doing some things to prep on weeknight evenings what needed to be done for Steve's next visit the upcoming weekend. At the same time, Thursday evening was "Shop Night" at the Fab/Machine shop where Steve was Shop Foreman, so any machining or specialty work (which we didn't have the gear for in the bodyshop), Steve would do on Shop Night. (things that come immediately to mind are narrowing of the 9" housing, drilling & tapping the ends of the 4 link bars/panhard bar, cutting out four link and other brackets on the flame table, etc)
Later in the summer, with the chassis "Back Halved", diff narrowed, four link & coil overs installed, as well as cage complete, Steve's involvement (for the time being) was done.
A mutual friend of Steve & I's, a Sheetmetal Mechanic was supposed to help me out with the tinwork, but ended up having scheduling conflicts, so he hooked me up with a coworker of his, who helped out, as the body shop had no sheet metal brake, shear or bead roller. (and myself, would have had no idea what to do with them.)
We got the bulk of the "Tin Work" done, and by this point it was fall, and with the exception of a small number of weekends, I had been at the shop seven days a week since some time in March. It was apparent there was no way the car was going to go down the track this season, so I took a step back and more than a few deep breaths:)
Now here's where things get tricky......I've put off posting this for quite some time due to my apprehension about being FLAMED when I tell you that the car, while it has progressed some since the fall of 1987, has still not been completed:(
I'm not going list reasons or excuses, or apologize, I'm just going to say that Life can sometimes get in the way, and at least I haven't sold it off for a fraction of it's value, and leave it at that.......
If you have strong feelings about this and want to bust my balls, please don't, I've heard it all (or most of it) before, and none of it has been helpful, productive or motivating in any way..............

So, enough text, on with the pics!! There will, by the end, be 52 of them, but it's been suggested to me that I hand feed you a few at a time:)

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The pic above is from the day the disassembly started.......in a corner of the body shop I was working at, some Saturday in Mar/1987. **Just a heads-up: The talent behind the chassis work, rear suspension, & roll cage on my car was my friend Steve Rutherford, who's been a welder/fabricator his entire adult life, and has a long history with street rods & racecars, going all the way back to his purchase of a Model A Tudor in 1963, which he still owns today (2021). I did plenty of grunt work, detail stuff, preparing things for the next upcoming weekend, ordered parts, etc. When the chassis/cage/suspension was completed, Steve's part was done (for now) A mutual friend of Steve & I's, a Sheetmetal Mechanic was supposed to help me out with the tinwork, but ended up having scheduling conflicts, so he hooked me up with a coworker of his, who helped out, as the body shop had no sheet metal brake, shear or bead roller. (and myself, would have had no idea what to do with them.)

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Early mock-up, after all the rear floor and unibody structure was cut out, the quarter panels wanted to "droop". The porta power is under the bumper reinforcing bar to help support the back of car.


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Early mock-up, car is sitting on a "Poor mans chassis table" made of 2"x2"x 0.125" WT tubing, with bolts in the bottom of the legs to allow it to be leveled.

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Using a piece of exhaust tubing during mockup, it's OD is pretty close to that of the 9" housings axle tubes. It helps keep the wheels in the same plane, and with the wheels positioned where we want them in relation to quarter panel clearance, we can measure for the width of the diff (axle flange to axle flange) and by setting the wheels in the same orientation (height wise) as the desired ride height, it also gives us an idea of how far the rails need to be above the axle tubes, to allow for suspension travel. This helps us determine the final elevation of the 2"x3" rectangular tube frame rails.

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Another view of the early mock-up of rear rails.


**more in next post
 
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James there is no need to apologize for taking a long break from your project. I have done the same….like you say life gets in the way……..my wife left me, my daughter died and we drop back and reassess. Keep plugging away please! We look forward to more……
 
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Mocking up the 2"x3" tube rear rails to determine height which will allow for adequate axle travel.

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Rear rails supported by angle while getting squared up and leveled before welding. **Notice the two notches cut into floor pan? (To the left and to the right of the e-brake handle). This shows how the subframe connectors will tie the front unibody rails into the 2"x3" rear frame rails.

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More rear rail mockup, leveling, etc.

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Knotching the floor pan to get the passenger side subframe connector to fit.

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The tubing which runs left to right across the pic is the 2" x 3" subframe connector that runs ~6"into the front unibody rails under the car, and connects to the rear tube frame rails.


That's enough for tonight, both my typing fingers are worn out!! lol

EDIT: Ha! I pasted this into a second post right after the first, but somehow managed not to hit the reply button, until now:) Ah, first time posting with pics from my new imgr acct, so if that's the worst mistake I make, I can live with it....

James
 
James there is no need to apologize for taking a long break from your project. I have done the same….like you say life gets in the way……..my wife left me, my daughter died and we drop back and reassess. Keep plugging away please! We look forward to more……

Thanks Keith, glad to know not everyone is armed with a flamethrower:) lol

James
 
Very cool James! I like the exhaust tube to mock-up the wheel spacing . I'll be watching (y)
Thanks Lee! The exhaust tube was Steve's idea:)
There's more coming in the days ahead, (42 more pics to go!) and if it goes over well, I can always go out to the garage and get some detail shots of stuff if anyone has questions about anything in particular....

James
 
No flaming here, I can tell you stories about stalled projects !
Love it, pictures are great. Those tires look like steam roller tubes.
 
No ball busting here, I think most of us can relate on one level or another. :)
Looking forward to seeing more of the journey.
Just curious, what rear end did you have in the car prior to the teardown? See 5 lug on the rear, 4 on the front, and looks wider.
 
James!!! I CAN'T BELIEVE..... lol
Doubt anyone here would flame you, we'd probably end up burning ourselves.
I wonder what ever happened to that Fairmont,, I helped Al build that car!
I think it was one of thd first cars Al built as the Canadian Alston Chassis distributor.
Fred
 
Scotty: It had a 9" under it when I got it, but it was kind of wide, and the housing had the swaged axle tubes (ie: OD changes part way down the tube-light passenger car).
So I found a full size passenger car housing and we shortened it. And the housing that was under the car, and had already had mounts for the Fox Triangulated four link was sold off......

James
 
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Fred: I'm not sure where it ended up, but it looked like it was well done, and when I spoke with Al, he was telling me that every piece of glass in the car was NEW, and same for the bumpers and all the trim. Never went to look at it, just couldn't swallow the asking price, which was awful close to what many people were asking for turn-key stuff at the time. Not disputing the quality of the build, just more $$ than I could come up with. (And truth be told, I'd probably rather have a Fairmont than a Mustang:)....have actually had (3) Zephyr Z-7's, and (1) Zephyr SW over the years...

James
 
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I don't know where or who would 'flame' you for life getting in the way? I think most 'hot rodders' end up taking more time to build than we initially plan? You still have it and that is the important thing. As a Ford guy I am enjoying your post! Keep them coming....
 
OK, round two:

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Partially completed cage.

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Cage, prior to starting tinwork. **Tires are 19.5-33-15 Mickey Thompson Sportsman.

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Rear view of cage, looks complete, except for window net mounts, seat support(s). **All the cage tubing was sandblasted prior to being welded into the car. Much less work to prep for paint, biggest job will be prepping weld joints for paint, and MASKING the interior.

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Cage, rails, front four link mounts. **The focus isn't great, but there are nuts silver soldered onto the four link bars. The bars OD was measured, and nut size closest to the OD was drilled out to slip fit the bars, then silver soldered in place to make four link adjustments easier. I had to laugh, several years later when my younger bro bought a Morrison backhalf kit for his Chevy II, and the bars had HUGE nuts (with threads intact) slipped over the bars and tacked in place with a mig?? WTF?

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Passenger front cage shot.

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Diff, coil overs, fuel tank. Coil overs were purchased from Art Morrison, they were their "Econo" model, which is basically the lower cup, which accepts the shock and the coil spring. Shock is a Gabriel single adjustable....

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A look inside the drivers side wheel tub.

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This is one of many examples of how technology changes the techniques one would use to make a part THEN (1987) vs Now. If I was making this part tomorrow, I'd go out to my garage, put my tipping wheel on my bead roller, and tip that flange, then finish it up with a hammer & dolly. Not only would it be quicker to do with the tipping wheel, it would have the bonus of being much less prone to stress cracking in the long term, being as the notches would not be necessary.

That's all for today lads! But there's still 32 to go:)

James
 
This hits very close to home on the extended build time - I had a project car I held on to since my university days, until just a couple of years back. I'm retired now, so that was a pretty good stretch of time, with the car and associated parts going through several moves and new locations over the years. There never seems to be a lack of things taking priority - relationships, finances, health, etc. - but it's great to see that you've persevered, and got the irons back in the fire!

Good luck and above all have fun - there are lots of people rooting for your success! (y)
 
WestCDA: Thanks, timelines sound similar, when we started the chassiswork in '87, I was 26.
BUT, sadly the irons are not back in the fire until I'm back amongst the employed.
In early 1988, I moved the car home to the garage I built with my $$......in my parents back yard:) Got laid off in the fall of '88, went and did some Mill Maintenance work when it was available, then did 6 months in a warehouse picking grocery orders. Now it's early winter '89, spent 3 months working on a '56 T-bird, the owner ran one of the other body shops in G.P. They still taught Lead Work when I did my apprenticeship in the early eighties, but it wasn't until working for this fellow that I REALLY learned that skill:)
In '91, the folks decided to downsize, so I lost the garage, and the car went into storage in the quonset on a friends acreage. By this point I had been having trouble with my wrists for awhile, and had even had surgery on one....in the end the Orthopedic Surgeon told me "time to start looking for another line of work".
Took a whole lot of arguing, and an appeal, but eventually got approval for re-training, which meant I'd have to move to Edmonton to go to N.A.I.T. So, in June/92, we pulled the car out of storage, and I spent almost a month working in Steve's garage. Got the engine & trans in, installed the line-lock & plumbed the new manual brake m/c, and the m/c for the McLeod hydraulic throwout brg. Also repaired al the damage to the tubes/collectors of the headers, then sandblasted and painted them with high heat paint, and bunch more small jobs that needed doing. All in an effort to make the car as complete as possible before I packed up all my belongings and headed off to Edmonton to start school in the fall of '92. The car was brought down to Edmonton, and was in my lil bro's garage for a time, but he bought a Chevy II, and decided to backhalf it, so it had to go into storage. It bounced around a few locations, as the guy was renting unleased warehouses and making good $$ stuffing them full of cars. Early 2000's, the car ended back up north, as Steve was now on an acreage, and we made a deal for him to do some wiring and other stuff, and I did the wheel opening stretch on the full tube chassis Mustang he was building. That was a long drawn out affair. I used to go up for a weekend every 6-8 weeks, and bring all the required tools with me. Probably had a ratio of about 2:1 hrs working on the car vs hrs driving to or from Edmonton.
As seen in Link in first post:
It always works out good bartering labour for labour, I hate paying shop rate!! lol
Anyways, by the time Steve had all the boxes on my wishlist ticked off, I had the metalwork done, and at some point in '03 when he was coming down to visit his parents, who lived maybe 5 minutes from the house I bought in '02, he brought the trailer along and dropped the car off.
Sorry, for running on:), that IS actually the short version, left out all the stuff with school, getting a real job, losing my mom, etc.

James
 
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What running gear you planning to run?
351C/Toploader 4 spd/ narrowed Ford 9" w/Strange 31 spline axles, Street gears are 4:88/Ford Tractionlok (axle ratio not as bad as it sounds, remember, tires are 33" tall)
351 has 0.030" OS TRW Forged flattops, SPS Rod Bolts, Crane 521211 Solid Cam
Heads were mildly ported, but were run on a flow bench to match flow cylinder to cylinder. Severe Duty Valves, triple springs, titanium retainers. Crane BBC Roller Rockers, Jomar Stud Girdle, Port plates & windage tray from MPG Heads, Edelbrock Torquer single plane intake, Holley 750 DP carb, MSD 6AL ignition, Mcleod 3500# "Long Style"disc & PP, McLeod hyd. t/o brg, McLeod scattershield, Ford T&C Toploader w/vertical gate shifter........I'm sure I've left stuff out, that's just off the top of my head.

James
 
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Wow, a lengthy commute every time you want to work on the car shows some serious dedication ... good on ya! Thanks for the backstory, always interesting to hear what goes into some of these projects - both the good and the bad. (y)