1930 Ford Model A Vicky Build

Good run for the car Tim, sounds like a piss off with the fan, oh well you have that sorted now anyway. I do have a rebuild information for the Jag diff which I know I lent out but still think I might have got it back, I'll look for it and scan it then email you.


The car looks great so once you have these sorted you'll be laughing mate.

Cheers for now John
 
I buy the magnaflux spot check at my welding supplier . I've never bought a kit as such. All I have ever used is a can of die penetrant and a can of developer to reveal cracks. Mind you, It won't reveal hairline cracks, just a full crack that the penetrant can seep through.
 
Thanks Lee I picked up another unit Monday and it looks really good!!!

I took mine with me and Richard looked at it and he has found that corrosion on the lower pivot bearings seems to be the culprit for the fracture lines on the hubs in general!!!!!!!!!!!

I will post a picture of the new one before I start to polish it!!!!
 
Never simple

Well I had the replacement hub sitting and decided to give it a cleaning !!!!

Got it all washed in the parts washer and with my son coming for 4 days at Christmas :D I figured we should have a good show and tell :cool::cool:

To really get it clean I started with some Por 15 marine clean (works super on cast aluminum) low and behold this is what I found!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I remembered that Richard had another on the shelf, so I emailed him on Sunday to say I would exchange them!!!!! He called me back immediately and said he would just mail it Monday!!!!!!!!!

Monday afternoon he calls to say that the mail lady failed to take it!!! To which I said I would get it out of the mailbox on Boxing Day since we would be going out anyways!!!!!!!! He is an hour away and it was a nice drive!!!!!!!!

Excitedly I just picked it out of the box without really looking at it and it was quite dark!!!!!!!

Got home with it and started to get ready to polish it!!! It seemed to be a bit different from the one I had, so I started to compare them!!! from the outside they are similar but the back side is a whole different story!!!!!!

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VS


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I then remembered that Richard had said " it was a bit different" the first time I was there to get the hub!!!!!!! Now I know the difference!!!!

I will be heading back next week:eek::eek::eek:
 
Holy Crap!:eek:
I have my truck up on the hoist with the rear wheels off to make a spacer. I guess Ill be checking my hubs for cracks while they're off today. That's a little too coincidental that the replacement hub was cracked also.
 
Making it more shiney

In September I had spoke with Andrew Lawson about the possibility of having him cut and polish the remaining areas of the car. It had been getting more and more difficult to get Jonathan (the painter) to come and do it as he isn't feeling well and has a family of 4 kids + wife so his times are limited!!!!!! He was also good with having a professional detailer do because he doesn't do polishing to this level as a rule.

Andrew called me just before Christmas as promised :D:D and said he would be here the 27th and 28th to start with the job and he showed up at 9am:cool::cool:

The Champagne areas had already been done by Jonathan but not quite enough for Andrew!!!!!!!! LOL

What follows are some before and after pictures. I tried to capture the change in reflections in each pic.

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The other side before and after :cool::cool:

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And a side shot for interest!!!!

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Tomorrow he will be back to continue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Once done he is going to Ceramic coat the entire car:cool::cool:
 
ratrig said:
Tim, There is all kinds of discussion on cracked hubs out there on the interweb.
Here is one from jag-lovers. It describes your problem exactly
https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/lumps-total-hub-carrier-failure-while-driving/114965
Click to expand...


Thanks Lee for the link!!!!!!!

I have Jags in both of my other vehicles and I have always checked them each time on the hoist for cleaning/greasing !!!!

I think that having them polished my show a crack quicker than the original cast units!!!!!! Any road grim wipes off along with grease inside the hubs from the u joints + controlled seepage of the inner seals!!!!!!!!!!! LOL
 
Wow mate what a difference that has made, I hope you took careful note of what he did :) :) I'll go and look for the Jag diff info right now, I just hope I didn't leave it with the Bearing shop when I sold that.
 
John

I have certainly watched and made note of the process but am scared shitless to try it on the new paint!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think I may give the other vehicles a go when I get ready for a repaint on them so that if I screw up no harm !!!!!!!!!

No worries as I have a repair manual from Richard the Jag lad!!!!The shim kit for the pinion and axles will be here today in the mail so I should be able to button up the diff!!!!!!!!!!

Gary

Yes I can see my ugly mug in the paint but I try not to look!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Tim,
Any updates on the IRS, is the car back on the road? I must admit that I've been lucky with the Jag IRS in my 35 Chebby; new bearings, seals and shims etc got it right. 15yrs now and still going strong.;)
 
Thanks Mark for the reminder!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

I have read a lot of the Jag forum post and it appears the crack in the replacement hub is from the original casting process!!!!!! Possibly cooled too quickly according to the engineer writing the article!!! Given were the crack is it is considered non structural??????????

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I also discussed the crack in the my polished hub and Richard( jag mechanic) suggested just welding it up. So Barry came down and we proceeded to end drill the crack and open up a large v in order to get total penetration. The cast didn't like to be welded but with some preheating and perseverance we manage to get it welded!!!! ( sorry forgot to take pics). I ground the welding smooth and re-polished it and you can't tell it was done:cool::cool:

I am going to rebuild the hub in the picture above as a spare and it will go in the trailer/truck with the tool box and other bits( front bearings, seals etc.)


As for your question Mark about the IRS I was able to finally get the pinion shims necessary and reassembled to unit back to the specs in the repair manual along with the backlash that was printed on the crown gear .007"

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While checking out things I had noticed over the coarse of the summer that there was a line of grease on the bottom of the floor at the front and rear universals!!! Not a lot but definitely more than I thought should be!!! It seemed like the joints were getting warm and throwing the grease out!!!

I started checking the motor/pinion angles and found that the pinion was down 1.2 deg and the transmission output shaft was down at 2.3 deg :eek::eek::eek:

I know all too well that they are supposed to be opposite and equal to each other!!!!!!!!! I think in the beginning of the frame build I missed this due to thinking of too many things and old age!!!!!!!! I have Jag rears in both the 52 F-1 (100,000 kms) and the 33 Vicky( 52,000 miles) without issue.

I had a local machine shop make a wedge for me to tilt the diff the 3.5 deg necessary (similar like rear wedges on leaf sprung cars). Installed it really not taking into account the reaction of the lower control arms!!!! As the rear tilted it rotated the arms forward almost 1/2" making the radius rods too long (adjustable) and the strut rods from the frame to the front support of the diff out of alignment not adjustable without cutting and welding:eek::eek:

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Well after some choice words and a severe beating I went to the confusor to research the issue and low and behold it appears that jag made 3 different "inner fulcrum pivot brackets"!!!!!! They are 0 deg, 3 deg and 6 deg !!!! Mine are the 0 deg ones!!!!!

Well off I go to Richards shop to find some of the 3 and 6 deg pieces of which he had 2 sets of 6 deg and one set of 3 deg brackets!!!!! the 3 deg ones are from a 3.8 E type which are quite rare and he requires them for a restoration that he has to do so I may borrow them but not keep!!!!!!!

I took the 6 deg bracket to the machine shop and had them weld up the front holes and re-drill them about an 1/8" lower to give the 3 deg necessary.

This is a pic of the difference between the 6and 3 deg bracket

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Installed it and checked all the angles and I am within .3 deg on the pinion angles and have o deg on the hubs which I think are well within tolerance??!!

This allowed the radius rods and support struts to line up properly and I have it all assembled back together:):)

While waiting for this all to transpire I knew that we needed a trailer hitch to drag the 33's trailer along to Deuce Days (no room in the car for long haul luggage). The following pics are of the idea I came up with and had powder coated along with the above brackets!!!

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To finish up the trailer hitch I am waiting for a covered plug to come in and will mount it in a bracket beside the license plate for the trailer lights.

In mid December I had the car in the air on the hoist and noticed a red puddle on the floor under the tranny!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought what the hell!!!!!!! For no apparent reason the pan gasket decided to start leaking!!!!!! The transmission is a brand new crate unit I got with the motor back in 2011 and we put the summer mileage on without so much as sign of either oil or tranny fluid under the car!!!!!!

Maybe the pan was over torqued from the beginning???????????? So I got another gasket from GM and that is the next repair to tackle!!! I will check the pan for distortion at the bolt holes before reinstalling it!! Torque is 12nm or 9 ft lb on the bolts!!!! Any suggestions are welcome!!!!

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I think that's it for now!!!!!!:cool::confused::)
 
Hi Tim. Sorry for the hijack. I m just wondering what you ended up with for rear wheel camber. Did you go for 0 or slight neg camber. I have 2 degree negative and I'm going to make shims to get it closer to 0. How is your tire wear ? Im sure you have enough kms to access your setup.
thanks, Lee
 
Lee

No hi-jack just more info on the build not shared!!!!!!!!:):)

I have 1.6 deg. on the right and 1.4 deg. on the left on the Vicky build and with the 5500 miles on it there doesn't appear to be any odd wear issues.

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Just out of curiosity I checked the trucks right side and it is 1 deg. and the tires have maybe 10,000kms. on them.

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When you say negative I am assuming tipped in at the top.

I have a number of shims from previous rear ends dismantled like the picture below.

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The left ones are for shimming the brake rotors and the right are the wheel alignment ones.

Let me know what you think you need and I could mail them to you.

Tim
 
Thanks for the info Tim. I will aim for -1 degree (yes, negative is top tipped in). In my findings in the jag world forums they mention -1/2 to -3/4 , but don't know if that was proven. I was interested what yours was because I know you have put some miles on it. I appreciate the offer on the shims,that is very kind of you, but I made a couple of 16ga. ones. I'm thinking I can get it a little over what I need and take out the thinner ones till I reach -1.
cheers,
 
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