Thanks JBG. Yeah, Cabrio......sorry , it's part of the local dialect here in these parts
1929 Model A Sport Coupe to Cabriolet conversion
- Thread starter markg
- Start date
Fuel lines and brake line through the frame.
On the fuel line side (right frame rail) ports were made in the frame rail and boxing plate for an ovalized cover plate tha would accomodate two -6 AN bulkhead fittings, for pressure and return. The two cover plates were machined from 1/4'' plate on the mill and all powdercoated. A braided stainless teflon -6 AN fuel line (ethanol compatible) protected by spiral hydraulic hose wrap is in the right frame rail. I'm running just the mechanical pump for so only one line, upgradable to a second return line ( fuel injection?) in future.
The brake line in the left frame rail. The turned round cover plates accomodate -3 AN bulkhead fittings front and back. The in-the-frame brake line is a DOT approved custom length 72'' braided stainless steel teflon line from Classic Tube ( https://stopflex.com/ ) covered with spiral hydraulic hose protector.
The rear ovalized hole was milled in the boxing plate before welding it on. The front ovalized hole was hole saw/cutting disked. The brake line ports on the left side were hole sawed.
for
On the fuel line side (right frame rail) ports were made in the frame rail and boxing plate for an ovalized cover plate tha would accomodate two -6 AN bulkhead fittings, for pressure and return. The two cover plates were machined from 1/4'' plate on the mill and all powdercoated. A braided stainless teflon -6 AN fuel line (ethanol compatible) protected by spiral hydraulic hose wrap is in the right frame rail. I'm running just the mechanical pump for so only one line, upgradable to a second return line ( fuel injection?) in future.
The brake line in the left frame rail. The turned round cover plates accomodate -3 AN bulkhead fittings front and back. The in-the-frame brake line is a DOT approved custom length 72'' braided stainless steel teflon line from Classic Tube ( https://stopflex.com/ ) covered with spiral hydraulic hose protector.
The rear ovalized hole was milled in the boxing plate before welding it on. The front ovalized hole was hole saw/cutting disked. The brake line ports on the left side were hole sawed.
for
Last edited:
Radiator hose hookup on 30's hot rods.
I've never been a fan of the universal 'Donkey Dick' style of rad hose, preferring molded hoses for the aesthetic. With a SBC in a Ford it's not always easy to find the right hoses that give you the right 'look'.
I thought it would be easy. You know, just go down to the auto parts store, ask to go behind the counter to choose something off the rad hose rack that looks right. Well, I found out it's not that easy. Auto parts stores, at least in this area, do not have a rad hose wall/inventory any more, they have to be ordered in.
So in the end I was able to find a lower hose from a mid 60's Chevrolet that fits quite well. The upper hose however I had to make a cobbled together hose from what I could order in that I have tried to make as visually appealing as possible.
So how to apply the bead to the 1/16'' wall steel tube elbow that I used to produce that extra bend that I needed?
I've been eyeing the Furick bead roller, I like the simplicity of it but not the price. https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller.
I thought about making up a set of dies for my HF bead roller but in the end I just made up a set of dies for the Pullmax like I've seen the pros do on Instagram.
I didn't think to do a video capture of doing it but it's pretty much like metalshaper's method here:
OCD, I know. I can't help it.
I've never been a fan of the universal 'Donkey Dick' style of rad hose, preferring molded hoses for the aesthetic. With a SBC in a Ford it's not always easy to find the right hoses that give you the right 'look'.
I thought it would be easy. You know, just go down to the auto parts store, ask to go behind the counter to choose something off the rad hose rack that looks right. Well, I found out it's not that easy. Auto parts stores, at least in this area, do not have a rad hose wall/inventory any more, they have to be ordered in.
So in the end I was able to find a lower hose from a mid 60's Chevrolet that fits quite well. The upper hose however I had to make a cobbled together hose from what I could order in that I have tried to make as visually appealing as possible.
So how to apply the bead to the 1/16'' wall steel tube elbow that I used to produce that extra bend that I needed?
I've been eyeing the Furick bead roller, I like the simplicity of it but not the price. https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller.
I thought about making up a set of dies for my HF bead roller but in the end I just made up a set of dies for the Pullmax like I've seen the pros do on Instagram.
I didn't think to do a video capture of doing it but it's pretty much like metalshaper's method here:
OCD, I know. I can't help it.
Last edited:
Adapting the windshield stanchions to the rectangular 1/2'' x 1'' cross section windshield frame.
Being that the OEM style Ford ferrules that I sourced from Speedway ( https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1915-31-Ford-Windshield-Swivel-Chrome,2974.html ) are patterned for a round section Model A roadster frame, I couldn't use them and elected to not try to modify them.
Instead, I spun up some cones out of aluminum bar stock that matched the Model A cone ferrules . I then milled the slot to match the new rectangular windshield frame.
Another thing ticked off the list.
Being that the OEM style Ford ferrules that I sourced from Speedway ( https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1915-31-Ford-Windshield-Swivel-Chrome,2974.html ) are patterned for a round section Model A roadster frame, I couldn't use them and elected to not try to modify them.
Instead, I spun up some cones out of aluminum bar stock that matched the Model A cone ferrules . I then milled the slot to match the new rectangular windshield frame.
Another thing ticked off the list.
Very nice work. I can relate to your rad hose dilemma. Put a Griffen rad in my 40 Ford Coupe with a 350 Chev engine. Used three different hoses to piece together the top hose. Clamps (5) make for a Stegasaurus dinosaur look. lol
Thanks, good to know I'm not alone on this, LOL
Rear frame notches
In the rear I used a 6'' OD 1/4'' wall tube to make the notches. Take note that with the Posie's quarter elliptic suspension layout that the only suspension load into the frame aft of the frame notches are the shock absorbers.
Photos of the Prothane polyurethane bump stops seats. ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-1315-bl ) The radius on the bump stop seat was machined on the Bridgeport to match the ID of the notch tube ( 6'' OD minus the 1/4'' + 1/4'' wall thickness, so 5-1/2'') then faced, drilled and tapped on the lathe to accept the threaded bump stop and then tig welded into the frame notch.
In the rear I used a 6'' OD 1/4'' wall tube to make the notches. Take note that with the Posie's quarter elliptic suspension layout that the only suspension load into the frame aft of the frame notches are the shock absorbers.
Photos of the Prothane polyurethane bump stops seats. ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-1315-bl ) The radius on the bump stop seat was machined on the Bridgeport to match the ID of the notch tube ( 6'' OD minus the 1/4'' + 1/4'' wall thickness, so 5-1/2'') then faced, drilled and tapped on the lathe to accept the threaded bump stop and then tig welded into the frame notch.
Last edited:
Exhaust system
Nothing really special here. I bought a bunch of steel 2-1/2'' J and U bends from Speedway, ( https://www.amazon.com/Speedway-Motors-Exhaust-Mandrel-Header/dp/B07Y5N4F34 ) two lengths of Spintech ovalized straight tubes ( https://spintechmufflers.com/oval-round-tubing/oval/ ) and oval to round transitions for the under the floor runs, a couple of Dynomax stainless mufflers (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17230 ) that I had to cut and shorten and a couple swap meet resonators from the Syracuse Nats .
All the flanges and hangers were cut on the plasma table . Hanger isolators from Paul Horton's Welder's Series https://welderseries.com/store/Snapper-Exhaust-grommets-p49808900
The downtubes were tig welded from U and J bends with o2 sensor bungs and Cerakoted by my son in the pic below ( https://emeraldcoatings.com/product-category/ceramic-coating/high-temperature-coatings/ ) . It's applied cold and allowed to air cure.
Has anybody used Cerakote? This is my first time using it. I'd like to hear how it holds up long term.
All the tubes aft of the downtubes were powder coated with hi-temp matte black powder.
The gold colored foil reflective material over the oval tube runs and resonators under the trunk floor ( where the battery lives ) is claimed by Pegasus Racing to be able to reflect heat up to 750*F. Expensive stuff. Hope it works! https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11221
Here's to hoping this all holds together when we fire it up, LOL
Nothing really special here. I bought a bunch of steel 2-1/2'' J and U bends from Speedway, ( https://www.amazon.com/Speedway-Motors-Exhaust-Mandrel-Header/dp/B07Y5N4F34 ) two lengths of Spintech ovalized straight tubes ( https://spintechmufflers.com/oval-round-tubing/oval/ ) and oval to round transitions for the under the floor runs, a couple of Dynomax stainless mufflers (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17230 ) that I had to cut and shorten and a couple swap meet resonators from the Syracuse Nats .
All the flanges and hangers were cut on the plasma table . Hanger isolators from Paul Horton's Welder's Series https://welderseries.com/store/Snapper-Exhaust-grommets-p49808900
The downtubes were tig welded from U and J bends with o2 sensor bungs and Cerakoted by my son in the pic below ( https://emeraldcoatings.com/product-category/ceramic-coating/high-temperature-coatings/ ) . It's applied cold and allowed to air cure.
Has anybody used Cerakote? This is my first time using it. I'd like to hear how it holds up long term.
All the tubes aft of the downtubes were powder coated with hi-temp matte black powder.
The gold colored foil reflective material over the oval tube runs and resonators under the trunk floor ( where the battery lives ) is claimed by Pegasus Racing to be able to reflect heat up to 750*F. Expensive stuff. Hope it works! https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11221
Here's to hoping this all holds together when we fire it up, LOL
Last edited:
You got some great looking welds there..always nice to see how it’s supposed to look like…
Many thanks JBG but I really need that 30$/hr guy!
Ya had to jinx us didn't ya
So the front spreader bar is made here in the shop with CNC plasma cut flanges and mild steel tube tig welded and then powder coated.
I didn't like the look of the Grade 8 bolt hex heads so I acquired some cheapie stainless steel bolts and set about making them more aesthetically pleasing with a Holdridge radius cutter on the lathe.
I think I like the stainless bolt look better....
I didn't like the look of the Grade 8 bolt hex heads so I acquired some cheapie stainless steel bolts and set about making them more aesthetically pleasing with a Holdridge radius cutter on the lathe.
I think I like the stainless bolt look better....
Last edited: