1927 Ford Model T- Revive

[CDNflatlander]

Here is the Revive of the Lee T from PG... The body was purchased for my younger brother at the beginning of his Model T street rod build. His desire for a radical chop and some other "unsavory" build plans had developed after we had this fine specimen in my shop. We found him another body that was much closer to his build plan...this left this sitting in my shop for several years as I gathered parts and a plan. No I did not need another project, however I am addicted, and my help group sponsors are not deterring me. haha

The build plan: swept up Model A frame, a custom build from Low West Hot Rods Edmonton, dropped front axle of course and a 9" rear. No chop 1927 Model T Coupe body, 1970 472 Cadillac V8 with a custom intake (large part of the project build for me the non-welder), Custom machined bits to mate a manual transmission, NV4500, to the 472. Interior is another of the interesting bits to me, aircraft styled aluminum, this will be my fun projects.

 

[Scotty]

Looks good bud!

 

[shane2290]

Subscribed !

 

[Rusty Olds]

This will be interesting

 

[CDNflatlander]

A little time last night getting the engine squared into place, then playing with engine mount space…the plywood is almost as expensive as metal, I will likely make the next set out of metal ;-)

 

[PG409]

I recognize that car Greg ! I like the look of that frame. Good thoughts on the build……..

 

[CDNflatlander]

Last night I had some time to work on the final measurements for the front crossmember; I had been picking away at this for several evenings.
The frame was built with the machine beset of radical, including “suicide” front axle/spring mounting. I am must say I prefer the shorter (more stock) wheelbase. To keep the proportions correct for my mind, I needed a front crossmember to mount the traverse spring.
The normal way to install these crossmembers is to cut a notch in the frame for these to sit, I get this, as it will spread out the stresses of the up/down pounding from the imperfections of the roadways. With this frame of holes, I decided to cut the Cross member to fit in between the rails, this can be beefed up to support the stresses (I believe). The frame rails are also pinched, so the spring eyes are much further out, which should add room for spring compression and movement before contact with the frame rails….this may be where I am mistaken and will need to go a few steps back to rejoin the cut-offs as well as notch the rails. We will see.
So that was what is new.

 

[PG409]

Thanks Greg. Will be nice to see this car on road again

 

[ratrig]

Thanks for the update Greg. Looking good !

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Baby steps…

 

[CDNflatlander]

Thanks guys for the kind words and supportive comments.
Tonight a little play time with some chrome. For those not aware or without the privilege of working with shiny stuff after it has been through the chrome process. As much as they make it look “Mighty Fine”, there are pitfalls, like threads or keyways.
I am typically in a “rush” once all the stuff is in front of me, no matter what the project, from building a dog house, chicken coop, plumbing or moving…once the bits are there I am the worst at real-world time estimation for the projects timeline. Pretty funny coming from a guy who owns and operates an industrial machine shop. Anyways, when we get the chrome bits, straight from the chrome shop or from the cardboard backed clear package “off-the pegboard”, the threads should be checked carefully with a nut. I prefer to use the nice chrome ones at the end at final assembly, therefore using used nuts or assembly/reassembly nuts (non-crush or non-nyloc) for dry runs and fit-up. Use a green scotch rite to clean off any flashing from the chrome process or even a thread file or triangle file. Tonight I got looking at my assembly parts and the nuts wouldn’t even run up the threads for all the excess flashing…no, these were not cheepo bits from Amazon, but Pete & Jakes (please let me believe they are still U.S.A. built). So here is a click of the extra stuff around after cleaning up two perch bolts.

The axle also required a little ream on the perch holes, flashing folding over the bore…glad I had a good slow taper ream to clean that up nicely.

 

[CDNflatlander]

So after cleaning up the key seats and the threads of the perch bolts I assembled up the front axle assembly to a couple hold points…actually, I assembled, I in-assembled, and re-assembled! Hahaha…I got a lot faster too! Back on track, I have had all these bits collecting for some time, since 2018 I believe, maybe a bit earlier. We had also built a lot of my younger brothers T Coupe in those years…so a few bits got pilfered for his build and apparently not replaced…so I found I did not have spring to perch straps of any sort here. A stop at that point. Pushing past that a bit, I found that I somehow have “lost” a hairpin…!?!? Now at that it’s 9:30, time to get cleaned up and shut it down for this day.
…contemplating this lost hairpin, I believe I know where it is sitting, so before work in the morning I will go shake that out so I can concentrate tomorrow;-)
Cheers.

 

[JohnnyBgood]

Do you have to notch the frame a bit above the springs?..looks like they will be on the frame when the weight is on.

 

[CDNflatlander]

Johnny, at this time, before ride height has been established, I think you are correct. I am a visual/hands on with a tape measure kinda guy. I can’t draw or use the digital tools to come up with exact & correct measurements before I buy a single part…so start tacking the bits together, add weight in the correct spots, stand back with a beer (or two) and re-asses. I’m keeping this project live so when I start procrastinating or doggin it I get called out and get my ass back on task.
Thanks for the question
Greg

 

[ratrig]

Johnny, at this time, before ride height has been established, I think you are correct. I am a visual/hands on with a tape measure kinda guy. I can’t draw or use the digital tools to come up with exact & correct measurements before I buy a single part…so start tacking the bits together, add weight in the correct spots, stand back with a beer (or two) and re-asses. I’m keeping this project live so when I start procrastinating or doggin it I get called out and get my ass back on task.
Thanks for the question
Greg

I resemble that procedure !

 

[CDNflatlander]

Shop time tonight was well spent chasing threads and assembling all the parts I thought I had lost-misplaced-gave away…tune in this spring when I hide my own Easter eggs!! Lol
Found that I did have the set, both hairpins plus the one I have been looking at (as a template), also ‘found’ the spring to axle straps/bushings! So very cool. Then as the night ended, I figured I could clean up some of the old packaging and such that was cluttering up where I ‘found’ the hairpins…much to my surprise I also ‘found’ the steering arms, shocks, and the misplaced and since replaced rad to cowl support arms for my brothers car!!
One of my older wants has been cowl steering, looking at the bits and pieces taking up the space on this project I am torn whether to cross steer or cowl steer.

 

[CDNflatlander]

The last few weeks was busy family time, little work on the T. Make no mistake, my mind was on this, even had a few beers in the shop with my youngest making plans. One of the discussions was regarding the manual transmission and the room in this little car for three pedals. Dug out the bellhousing and propped it up against the firewall and measure. Damn! only 11" of footwell space. The transmission is no narrower, so pretty sure I can't sneak another pedal in there. I spent several hours looking up the "Duck Clutch" and several other squirrel tracks trying to find a good useable idea for a manual trans. The search goes on.
Back in the garage, I do have a good solid TH400 that was mated to the Cadillac engine. Solid but very dirty, so a clean up is due, and so digging the years of grease and road grime off of the case. Great shop time, me space.
Cheers.

Another hour or two…it will come soon.

 

[Scotty]

You could put in a manual valve body so you still have to shift.