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Fitting our Gas Tank / Planning for "Unfitting"
by Frank Colgoni
   
 

As you may know, a 1932 Ford tank, when mounted in the stock postion at the rear of the frame rails, is in full view. That is, it's not hidden behind a body panel or apron. Depending upon your preferences, you can go with a poly tank, stainless, an original shaped tank or a combo and incorporate a cover which simulates the stock shape on top.

In our case, as is the case with most (but not all) full-fendered cars, we are placing the tank in its stock position and needed a tank compatible with a fuel injected application - preferably with an in-tank pump which pushes fuel rather than pulls it. The following explanation is courtesy of Popular Mechanics:

"Submerged Fuel Pumps – How They Work
Electronic fuel injection systems won't work at all unless they're force-fed a constant supply of fuel under fairly high pressure. In the early days of EFI, electric pumps could be found outside the gas tank. But they faded from view because in-tank pumps held many advantages.

In-tank pumps are quieter and tucked away from engine heat and weather-related corrosion. Perhaps most important, they pressurize the fuel along the entire length of the system. Because higher pressure raises the fuel's boiling point, vapor-lock is virtually nonexistent in vehicles with an in-tank pump. It's also easier for a pump to push a liquid through a line than to pull it, so in-tank pumps are smaller and lighter. The whole assembly sits in a cup-shaped fuel reservoir that's usually fastened to the bottom of the tank. Unused fuel spills from the return line into the cup whenever the pump is running. The filled cup assures that sufficient fuel surrounds the pump pickup during braking, cornering and acceleration, even when the tank is near empty.

Electrical power for the pump usually comes from a pump relay. Turn the key on in a car with an in-tank pump, and the relay switches the pump on for a couple of seconds, filling the cup reservoir and pressurizing the system. After it travels up the pickup tube, it enters the inlet side of the pump, where it rushes directly through the pump motor to cool and lubricate it. From there, the fuel goes into a geroter (sliding vane) or roller vane pump assembly, where it's pressurized. Yes, that's right, the fuel runs directly through the motor, where electricity sparks across the motor's brushes. If you think back to your high-school chemistry class, you'll recall that combustion (or, in this case, an explosion) requires three things: fuel, ignition and oxygen. Fortunately, oxygen is not present in the fuel pump, so there's no ka-boom. Before the fuel exits the pump into the fuel line, it passes through a one-way check valve. The valve keeps fuel from draining out of the line and back into the tank when the pump is off"

To get all we wanted from a tank, we chose a Tanks 1932 Ford tank equipped with a high volume fuel pump having both feed and return fittings. The tank bottom is not identical to the bottom profile of the stock '32 tank because of the requirements of the in-tank pump. This isn't an issue as it can't been seen behind the frame horn covers / fenders.

 

Here's our tank as delivered from Tanks.
 


Close-up of sender opening / top of pump

 

 

The tank, like all '32 tanks, is built with a flange (see photo above) that supports the tank and positions it on top of the rear frame horns. Once the tank is put in place, the frame horn covers and spreader bar complete the back end. Conversely, if removing the tank, the frame horn covers are unbolted from the fenders and spreader bar, the bar is removed and the tank can be pulled out.

To facilitate assembly and, perhaps more importantly, disassembly if necessary, we changed the position of the tank flange and the modified the frame horn to allow for bottom mounting of the tank. In the event that the tank needs to be removed, it can simply be lowered down, independant of the frame horn covers and spreader bar.

The picture below shows the back side of the modified frame horn. The mounting bolts are shown threading up from the bottom. The frame horn cover and spreader bar are in place.

 
 


This is a shot of the tank bolted in position up into the frame horn.

 


When all together, it's impossible to detect the change.