Problems with headers melting plug boots

Hi guys. I'm having troubles with my headers melting my sparkplug boots making them arc out on the header tube. For the last couple years, nobody could figure out why my freshly rebuilt 327 wash running like sh!t. After a buddy told me that it definitely is an ignition issue, I started checking plug wires first. The second boot I pulled off....Bingo! It was melted and cracked. Therefore was arcing out, on the header tube. There is about 1/16" between the header tube and the plug boot itself. I swapped that plug wire with one that didn't have a header tube close to it. She ran perfect! I drove the car yesterday about 40km and heated the headers up pretty good, and she started running terrible again. Sure enough, same thing happened. The same header tube melted the other plug boot. Are there other plug wire I should try? I've seen the fabric sleeves that your can buy that slide over the plug boots to shield them from the heat, but these sleeves would actually be touching the header tubes in some places. Would that be okay? Here are some pic of what I'm working with.


The plug boot with the problems is the second from the back.


As you can see, this one is practically touching the header tube.


This is one that I had switched over to a different plug after it was melted and cracked.

Does anyone have any ideas I could try? I wouldn't be able to drive this thing very far without it melting another one!
Thanks guys!!

Your headers sure are close to the plugs ... you could try those insulating socks over the boots ...
or wrap your headers ... or both ... worst case scenario, buy different headers.

Why are your headers running so hot? How many miles have you got on the engine? Sure you're not running lean? Sound like stupid questions, but plug wires shouldn't melt, unless you're running crap wires, when an engine runs lean, headers can glow red, melting even the best wires. Check your plugs for colour.

Silicon wires will help .. and you might try running the wires under the headers instead of from the top side ,, It does make a difference

EDITED:

bullet said:

s ... you could try those insulating socks over the boots ...
or wrap your headers ... or both ... worst case scenario, buy different headers.

Click to expand...

If you buy new headers, get them ceramic coated which helps the heat issue.

luckylucky said:

Why are your headers running so hot? How many miles have you got on the engine? Sure you're not running lean? Sound like stupid questions, but plug wires shouldn't melt, unless you're running crap wires, when an engine runs lean, headers can glow red, melting even the best wires. Check your plugs for colour.

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I have about 750km on the engine so far. I'm not an engine guy, so I don't know if it's running lean or not. They are Accel race wires. When I was driving the car home the other day, the temp was about 220* on the highway.

Another suggestion .... why not cut the offending tube and re-route it around the other tubes.

I'm not positive but I think it was in Speedway's Catalogue that I saw stubby spark plugs to give you more clearance

...I had the same problem with my S10 (w 350/350) and those shitty, poorly designed headers. I hate them because you have to remove them to change all the plugs (at least I haven't found a way, otherwise). I only found out about the arcing when I was working in a low lighting condition and saw four were arcing. I replaced the burnt wires and got the header socks and that stopped the problem.....hate those headers, hate, hate, hate..

Reroute the front tube. Looks like that's the one giving problems.

Well after more searching and reading this morning, as chemong55 posted, I'm going to order a set of Accel shorty plugs. While I'm at it, I'll order the plug wire heat sleeves and new wires. Hope that does the trick.

You can mark where the interference is, remove the headers and dimple them for clearance in the problem areas.

Another option is to buy a set of header flanges and use them as spacers.

Another option is to buy a set of header flanges and use them as spacers.[/QUOTE]

That seems to be a great idea, thanks for the post!
Greg

Restorex said:

I'll order new wires. .

Click to expand...

I am at work and my truck is at home so no close-up pictures, but my 460 with Sanderson (ceramic) headers the wires are relatively close and I routed them from the bottom. I anticipated problems with burning but I am pleasantly surprised so far, the plug wires are unbelievably good and I only bought them because they where blue, colour matching of course, I think (?) the wires where MSG and costly but well worth it. Don’t buy cheap wires.

bgbdlinc said:

...I had the same problem with my S10 (w 350/350) and those shitty, poorly designed headers. I hate them because you have to remove them to change all the plugs (at least I haven't found a way, otherwise). I only found out about the arcing when I was working in a low lighting condition and saw four were arcing. I replaced the burnt wires and got the header socks and that stopped the problem.....hate those headers, hate, hate, hate..

Click to expand...

Did you check out the headman headers for V-8 conversions for S-10? I checked my set (s-10 frame, 305 engine and 38 Willys body) and although a couple might have to use a wrench on the socket, most do not look that bad.. It even has clearance for the steering shaft to go through two tubes.


Russ

Accel wires

On a big block dodge it is almost impossible to route the wires without burning. I use the Accel shorty plugs and the Accel wires with the ceramic boots. My plug boots almost touch the headers and they still work fine. I also use the socks over the boots and wires. Never had a problem in the last 2 years with plug wires again.

Sounds to me like Luckylucky hit it. Sounds to me it is running lean. Headers are getting too hot and hiway driving should not run 220 I do not think. Put a little more fuel to it and everything should cool down.

Or the timing is a bit retarded ,, That will heat up the headers red hot in minutes

Thanks alot for all the help everyone! This thing is hard on fuel to begin with....I'll check into that though.

I'd say it may be too rich. The mixture load doesn't all get burned in the cylinder during the power stroke. Then it is still burning as it leaves through the header on the exhaust stroke.

When you get the headers ceramic coated, they warn to be careful of too rich as it overheats the header and can damage the coating.

Just another thought.