Drum brakes
- Thread starter DougE
- Start date
The pad pressure is applied evenly on both shoes.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake1.htm There is a short vid showing how they work.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake1.htm There is a short vid showing how they work.
Rochie
Well-Known Member
Kruuzin,
Heeyyy, there's nothing wrong with drum brakes if they are maintained properly.
The SHOE (please guys, not pad) with the short lining should allways be in the front of the axle. That applies to the rear axle as well. The short lining shoe is the primary and the longer of the two is the secondary. the front shoe contacts the drum friction surface and starts to rotate with the drum. It increases the pressure applied by the secondary shoe as it rotates toward the anchor pin
Heeyyy, there's nothing wrong with drum brakes if they are maintained properly.
The SHOE (please guys, not pad) with the short lining should allways be in the front of the axle. That applies to the rear axle as well. The short lining shoe is the primary and the longer of the two is the secondary. the front shoe contacts the drum friction surface and starts to rotate with the drum. It increases the pressure applied by the secondary shoe as it rotates toward the anchor pin
55LINCOLN
Well-Known Member
what a neat video
Aero46Chevy
Active Member
Great Post Guys!! Frank..where do you come up with all this stuff? You seem to find a link for everything.
hemiEssex
Active Member
Some drums must be better than others
My buddy Jeff has a 68 Plymouth GTX with drum brakes all around. Everything checks out good as far as shoes and drums but man, when you tramp on that 440 it does not want to come to a stop too quickly.It is not even an option not to update it to power discs. As far as I am concerned with the amount of cornholers on the road that like to brake quickly to look at wild life or are lost in tourist ville, power discs brakes are the only way to go. My 3/4 ton diesel long box pickup stops on a dime and I have had many close calls with it, I can go to the dealer and get a new bumper and grill to fix it, but I sure would be choked to try and find them for my Essex, I am putting 4 wheel discs on it just for the safety factor. Anything we can do to our cars to make them safer and keep the federales out of our face is the way to go.
Just my 2 cents
Steve
My buddy Jeff has a 68 Plymouth GTX with drum brakes all around. Everything checks out good as far as shoes and drums but man, when you tramp on that 440 it does not want to come to a stop too quickly.It is not even an option not to update it to power discs. As far as I am concerned with the amount of cornholers on the road that like to brake quickly to look at wild life or are lost in tourist ville, power discs brakes are the only way to go. My 3/4 ton diesel long box pickup stops on a dime and I have had many close calls with it, I can go to the dealer and get a new bumper and grill to fix it, but I sure would be choked to try and find them for my Essex, I am putting 4 wheel discs on it just for the safety factor. Anything we can do to our cars to make them safer and keep the federales out of our face is the way to go.
Just my 2 cents
Steve
shifter
Active Member
Nope...we used to re-arc the shoes....(lining material)...on the arc grinder...was great for making clouds of asbestos dust...
But it didnt hurt us cuz we didnt know any better..
Mike,
Rochie
Well-Known Member
AHHHH Shifter,
you brought back memories...the smell of freshly gound ASBESTOS floating through the air on a bright shiney morning....COUGH.....COUGH.
That's exactly the procedure! I used to like to watch the customer's face when he saw me grinding away on his brand new shoes.
you brought back memories...the smell of freshly gound ASBESTOS floating through the air on a bright shiney morning....COUGH.....COUGH.
That's exactly the procedure! I used to like to watch the customer's face when he saw me grinding away on his brand new shoes.
Ok I tried to post the way you said but as you can see it came out differently but at lest there are pics to see . The project is a 27 t coupe . The frame rails started out as 3/16 plate which we broke at 4 1/4 by 1 3/4 . The front kick up is 4 " and the rear is 14 " the front cross member is 1" higher than stock to lower the front 1' . The front spring is a reverse eyed and mounted on the trailing arms . Front axle is out of a 37 ford car along with the split wish bones . The rear end is a 40 ford . I took it apart and machined the center case to take 53 ford truck axle gears . I then narrowed it 2" and weld in the bearing ends 0ut of the truck housing and cut the spline end of the axle to the lest I could and still get in the axle gears . The rear trailing arms are out of a 35 ford car with both front and rear arms now mounted on tie rod ends . The rear spring is a 38" speedway 2" wide reverse eyed . That's it for now .