best coating when rebuilding A and B pillers

randaroo

Member
hi
I'm rebuilding the bottom of the A and B pillers of my ride(rusty).
The B piller's drop down to the quarter panel that attaches the running boards.
after fabing the bases/bottom what would you suggest to paint/coat the internal surfaces?
Note: I sprayed some of the inaccessible channels with galvinising spray befor folding them up and was intending to brush a sticky oil based paint such as Ace of Spades, Pore 15 or spraying in an undercoating product. Also the A piller base is extremely restricted, just one stupid little access hole near the bottom door hinges.
I was hoping a spray product with a wand applicator would be available.
Any great ideas or conventions out there, successful ones I mean?
 
Great question; I am also interested as we, My son and I, are getting to this part of the job on his build. I do not have your answer, but we will be following to see what we can learn here.
Here is a pic of our starting point, before we cut the remaining post area back to re-build it into workable body shell mounting points.

 
good to hear we're on the same page here.
I had thought a good sticky mix poured into the cavity and sloshed around with some kind of brush thingy would work well, just not sure what would be recomended for fresh metal.
Incedently this is my second time cutting this all out, i did my first attempt in 1980 and never undercoated these areas so thats ummm, a little while but now i have rust through and time to cut 'er out and start over, just want to do it better.
So far what is in grey is new metal and you can see the small access hole near the hinge plate.
Now lets see if i can attach these photos...
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/Randa-Roo/2014_010400072_zps18b477c3.jpg
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r781/Randa-Roo/2014_01040005_zps3917ee8c.jpg
 
Before spot welding the stake pockets to the bed sides on my HRT, they were sprayed with several coats of a self-etching weld thru primer on the inside to stop any rust from forming.
There is the copper or zinc based or the aluminium oxide based weld thrus.

Then there is a sprayable Zinc Galvanizing compound.
Eastwood in the USA carries this product.

Dupli-color have a weld-thru/cold galvanizing primer, very heavy on the zinc for corrosion and rust protection.

I've heard that some use the expandable foam but do not know of the results.

In some other hard to reach areas, a sprayable Lizard coating was used.
 
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From somebody on Jalopyjournal
"It's damn near impossible to seal out moisture on those inside areas.
Much easier to give the moisture a way out and air a way in.
You could also shoot oil in there once a year, that will help too."

Which sounds pretty interesting to me, if I think hard I may be able to open up a flow through bit of venting in those areas. The problem is that evil 'sand and salt cake mix' we can build here if the tire spray can reach any opening and no way to flush it out.
So from this and other posts here I'm thinking of using the hole saw in some careful locations, painting the crap out of it with galvanizing spray or brush-on and overcoating with por15 or like all my unrusting farm truck engine bays... spray with old oil. All the bodies rot away but the engine areas with a healthy coat of hydraulic or what-ever oil lasts forever
Also like to look at the eastwood frame spray if I can get it the next time I go to the big city.
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html
 
I used to like using cavity wax where I could. It's supposed to be thick enough to coat panels but thin enough to wick into seams. Applies with a long thin nozzle tube like wd40 has.
 
I used to like using cavity wax where I could. It's supposed to be thick enough to coat panels but thin enough to wick into seams. Applies with a long thin nozzle tube like wd40 has.

I forgot about that. It was used to coat the inside of the doors along the bottom where the drain holes are. Only product that would flow into the area with good coverage. I think the stuff used was called bees wax.
 
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Hi from the farm
This sis how I've been progressing...
So on the new metal I pre-spray every interior surface with zinc spray, cold galvanizing, then when its all welded up I spray where ever I can reach with the same stuff. That is "walter zinc 200" at 95% zinc, or at least that is what the label says.
Then I have some "Eastwood internal frame coating" that I will feed into those closed areas and spray with the long noodle they supply with the can. not sure what the zinc content is but all the sticky stuff in their formula should make sure it gets and stays where I'm concerned about.
I will also spray the Eastwood product into any of the enclosed areas that are not being replaced, I hope it can curb any further rust activity, assuming I will get another 20 years before something hideous appears, rust bubbles that is.
All the exposed metal being replaced will get a spray with the galvo/zinc stuff and a swipe with the por15 so it looks good.
I may over-spray the wax stuff into the areas that can hold any water though I've drilled drain holes and the local NAPA doesn't seem to know what the heck I'm talking about. surprise, they've been great otherwise.
So that's where I'm at... slow but sure... thanks to all you's guys too
 
gemblasters-Rusman

hi
I'm rebuilding the bottom of the A and B pillers of my ride(rusty).
The B piller's drop down to the quarter panel that attaches the running boards.
after fabing the bases/bottom what would you suggest to paint/coat the internal surfaces?
Note: I sprayed some of the inaccessible channels with galvinising spray befor folding them up and was intending to brush a sticky oil based paint such as Ace of Spades, Pore 15 or spraying in an undercoating product. Also the A piller base is extremely restricted, just one stupid little access hole near the bottom door hinges.
I was hoping a spray product with a wand applicator would be available.
Any great ideas or conventions out there, successful ones I mean?

Treat rusted steel with BarRust 235 devoe or amercoat 235,,PPG both will treat RUST mix 4-1-3 for good spray in hard to reach places
 
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Treat rusted steel with BarRust 235 devoe or amercoat 235,,PPG both will treat RUST mix 4-1-3 for good spray in hard to reach places
I was wondering what industrial marine products were out there for coating all those ships, pipelines, lighthouses etc. previously all I knew was Ace of Spades so these two part epoxy products would be good to know about. I think these are rust encapsulater products, so far nothing except electrolysis actualy stops or reverses oxidation but this stuff looks nifty. I wonder how a backcountry ding-bat can get their hands on it, is it commonly available?
Currently I'm replacing the substructure "rusty parts" of the trunk and then planning to replace the sections of skin that are showing signs of rott. It would be so much easier to just paint it up with something and topcoat it.