Small issues with my 235, and some wiring pains

[Old-Soul]

Well, I've had it back on the road for a grand total of a day and a half and she's already running hot... not all the time, but every now and again she'll get close to boiling over (hasn't yet)

it only overheated once last year, after the re-build, and hasn't done it again... I'm wondering if perhaps my belt is slipping (whenever I shift you can hear the belt slip for a secod) and it's just not spinning my pump fast enough? I checked for airlock, so I know thats not my problemo.

any ideas? I tightened my belt (it wasn't loose by any means, however) so I might se a difference.

now for the wiring:

before I took my grille off the primer the car, both my front parking lights worked 100%. I marked all the wires, so when I put it back together everything would be where it's supposed too... but now that I have it back on, when I click on the signals, both light up like 'hazard' lights?

aahhh the little things, how I love thee. :confused:

[49stovebolt]

Fencepost, I would pull your thermostat and check it or replace it. Cheap and easy - it may solve your problem with overheating.

As for the wiring it sounds as if you have a short between the two signal lights - any chance you pinched a wire or wires putting the grill back in. It could also be a short to ground so check your ground wires to be certain they have a good clean metal to metal contact.

If I recall there is a four pin junction block up by the rad support on both passenger and drivers sides - there was on my 49 Chevy. Check the connections and wires they have a tendancy to get frayed and brittle with the age of them.

Good luck.;)

[Old-Soul]

I checked and re-checked my wires, but I shall check again. (not like one more time could hurt)

as for the thermostat, I was thinking of that also. it was put in brand new when I rebuild the motor, but could be a buggered one.

strange thing was, when I took the ol' girl apart there wasn't a thermostat, that would mean that when it was parked in '70 it didn't have one... things that make you go 'hmmm'

[Aero46Chevy]

Fencepost, there is a few things it could be. check thermostat first of course. Check to make sure you put the fan on right and it is not on backwards. Possibly the head gasket, either wrong/ not installed properly. Timing. Also it is quite common with the 216/235/261 that scale has let loose in the block and plugged the passage way. Does yours have a petcock to the rear of the block on the driver's side? If so you need to pull it and get a wire in there and poke around to see if there is any scale built up. If your block has been boiled before rebuild they may have not flushed it out enough.
Is this the stock motor in it? I don't know if you have a car or truck. By doing some mods on an implant when you go from a 216 to a 235 you have to make sure pulley size and widths stay the same. Or you will get cavitation in the pump and will cause overheating. That 235 should run cool. If you don't have a wiring schematic for your vehicle you can go to online chevrolet manuals. you'll find it in there. Hope this helps you out.

Aero

[Old-Soul]

I think you nailed it with the pulley width, when I got my new waterpump the pulley was a wider width then the stock pump and I put it on there 'to get moving' and forgot about it.

go ahead, slap me for forgetting something so important.

edit: ignore that last question, I think my brain had a lapse or something haha

[Aero46Chevy]

Hey Fencepost; Is that 235 an implant. What year of a chevy is it and what year is the 235. There is a couple reasons i'm asking these questions. Once I know what you got and what year the engine is. I may be able to steer ya in a more direct, direction. :-)
When a later model 235 is installed in an earlier Chevy the fan is mounted higher than the 216/235 babbit pounder. So you are not pulling air through the proper area of the stock rad. Alot of guys will use the shorter water pump made for the conversion. This way of doing it can cause over heating. As the stock water pump has a longer shaft on the full pressure 235/261. On my 235 I used an adaptor plate to mount a 216 water pump on the 235 and used the harmonic balancer off my 216. So I use the stock 5/8 belt and the fan blade is in the correct position. Then I mounted the pully off the 216 generator on the alternator. I use the earlier GM alternator and it is a three wire. Is always available unlike the single wire and the smaller late model alternator has always had bearing problems.

[Old-Soul]

it's a '53 235, original mill bored 30 over.

the water pump isn't the same as my stock one. I've located another pulley...but now I'm wondering if it will

a) fit
b) not acctually be my problem.

[Aero46Chevy]

Is that a pwr. glide car or a manual. That's a screwy year for the chevy's. Check the date code behind the starter on the block. Make sure that the engine is the proper year. I'm kinda wondering if ya got the wrong pump or if it's a later 235 with the smaller grove balancer.

[wrascal]

On your turn signals, it sounds like you have a grounding problem. Newly painted parts are poor conductors. If your front signals use a double filament bulb such as a 1157, and the ground is poor, the current flows into the clearance light side of the bulb and presto! they all blink!

Russ

[Old-Soul]

Wrascal, I'll be sure to re-check all my connections tomorow :)

Aero, it's a 3-speed. As far as I know it's the original 235, but tomorow I'll get the code and we'll figure out just what I've got.

thanks for your help guys, it means a lot :)

[Old-Soul]

heres another thing to scratch your heads about... it only gets hot after sitting for awhile. Like when I go to work in the AM, it gets hot in a few minutes, then drops down to operating range and stays there....

[Rocket88]

What degree of thermostat are you running?
It almost sounds like it is opening late.
Aero is bang on with pump cavitation, those 6's are bad for that.
I built a 261 a few years back, spent a day at the bone yard to find a little larger pulley to slow the pump down a bit.