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View Full Version : dropping the height of a model A light bar


Martin
12-02-2008, 01:25 AM
Once more with another question
I'd like to drop the light bar on my 29 Model A coupe down a couple of inches for the aesthetics side of things, this will be on top of a 4" dropped axle.
Is there a minimum height in BC that your lights are supposed to be?

I figured the best way to do this would be to cut it centrally, removed the X factor amount to get it to the desired height, insert a smaller tube inside the bar and weld it up.
New holes in the fender and fender brace and rebolt it & hey presto.

Any suggestions

Regards
Martin

Davey_Joe
12-02-2008, 03:23 AM
yeah,.... buy a stainless one!!! then its done..... right!....

tinmann
12-02-2008, 09:35 AM
Don't listen to Mr. Visa/Mastercard above. Go ahead and D.I.Y., but your method won't work because the angle of the fender keeps getting steeper the lower you go. So you should try to do it the traditional way. Make a sturdy jig to hold a stock A bar (upside down). Heat the area between the fender mount and the headlight socket and slowly pump up a hydraulic bottle jack to the desired drop. You may have to release the end you aren't dropping from the jig while you drop the other end, but the jig remains a great way to check that you are stayin within spec of having something that fits back where it belongs when you're done.

MBog
12-02-2008, 11:00 AM
Just so you know "reject if--height is not between 56 cm and 137cm (21-55 in.) above road surface when measured at centre" right out of the big book o bullsh-t. This is from the same book that says reject if odometer not working. Now that's a real safety issue....

tiquer
12-02-2008, 01:06 PM
I like the dropped bar look too. It would great to diy so i`m going to build a jig. A little different from tinns but still along the same idea of using what Henery provided. And no conehead jokes there Davy:D:D

Davey_Joe
12-03-2008, 02:05 PM
......soooooo,.... like i said,... after ya screw up a perfectly good headlite bar,.... the one from the store is gonna look just 'effin' lovely!!!.........

tinmann
12-03-2008, 03:43 PM
$ometime$ there can be $imple $olution$ that allow a guy'$ wallet to $tay hidden without $crewing up a perfectly good part.

tin "low buck" mann

64krusty
12-03-2008, 08:39 PM
I'll bet teen38chevy has a better idea

Martin
12-03-2008, 11:59 PM
Hi Davey Joe
Any idea on how much a light bar might cost.

Regards
Martin

b-bob
12-04-2008, 12:50 AM
i'll bet teen38chevy has a better idea

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha !!!!!!!!

Canuck
12-04-2008, 01:49 AM
Dropping a headlight bar isn't that hard.

Start off by building a jig to hold the bar when dropping it. I used a piece of 2" sq tube that I had and a couple of short pieces of 2" angle. Angle or anything fairly rigid would work instead of the sq tube. Doesn't have to be that strong only rigid as there isn't that much strain on it. Drill the short pieces of angle to bolt onto the headlight bar and then weld them to the main bar of the jig using the original bar to set the spacing and angle correct.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/Chevelle406/Coupe%20Body/30BarinJig-Bend.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/Chevelle406/Coupe%20Body/EndDetai2inchesbelow28-15inchesbelo.jpg

Sorry the pictures show a already bent bar.

Take a reference measurment from the main bar to each headlight mount to insure the headlight sockets are even with the main bar of the jig.

Heat the bar to a dull read, just on the outside of the headlight mount and bend it straight up to about 45 degrees, don't force it quickly, keep the bar a dull red until you are finished. Take another reference measurment from the main jig bar to the headlight mount that is now way up in the air.

Let it cool naturally, DO NOT QUENCH with cold water, snow or even a air blast.

Unbolt the bar and bolt the other end to the jig and repeat the bend just outside of the headlight socket, insuring that the measument from the headlight socket to the jig bar is the same as the first bend.

Now re-heat the bar about a 1 1/2" to 2" from the mount and bend the bar back down parallel to the main jig bar. Make sure it is parallel by measuring from each headlight socket to the jig bar. If the original reference measurments were not equal these should be out by the same amount (easier to make the jig accurate at the start than play with it this way).

Unbolt and repeat on the other end. Make sure both headlight sockets are the same distance from the bar (see note above). If necessary it can be reheated and pulled down with clamps etc.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/Chevelle406/Coupe%20Body/DroppedBarinPlace.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/Chevelle406/Coupe%20Body/TheEndResult.jpg

Be careful that all bends are in the same vertical plane so the bar isn't twisted.

You don't need any hydraulic cylinders or levers to do the bending. Just a torch, a couple of 3/8 carriage bolts and nuts, some scrap steel and a welder and about 1/2 hour. Took me longer to smooth the ends of the bars to remove all the original forging marks than it did to drop the bar.

The attached pictures are a 30-31 bar that was dropped to fit 28-29 fenders, so the jig was built using a original 28-29 headlight bar. This ended up with a bar that is probably lower than you could drop a 28-29 bar and has a bit of a curve away from the radiator in the centre.

It is a nice touch and makes you feel good that you have done something on your rod and done it the way they did back in the 40s and 50s.

Good luck and enjoy the build.

Canuck

64krusty
12-04-2008, 10:52 AM
thats a nice tech article Canuck,thanx for taking the time to post it.

bct
12-04-2008, 11:11 AM
good job canuck....not much guess work after that!

Martin
12-04-2008, 01:30 PM
Hey Canuck
Thanks for taking the time to put all that down. The bar looks terriffic and the curves seem very well proportioned. I bet you were smiling once it was fitted.:)
Once I have my axle faux par sorted I thinks I might have a go at that.
Reckons I'll get some practice material from the local machine shop & try a practice bar or two first.

Regards
Martin

Alcan AV8
12-04-2008, 10:34 PM
Well Done. I might have to try that.

MBog
12-05-2008, 11:27 AM
Thanks for the tech, I'll try that this weekend maybe

modelAbone
12-07-2008, 05:43 PM
i have a jig too drop model A headlite bars how much do u want too drop it ? send it too me and ill drop it for ya

MBog
12-08-2008, 07:55 PM
I gave it a try and it worked out quite well. I used a 30 bar. It dr4opped about 2", I'm going to try for 3". I might have to shorten it then , Oh well, "we have the technology" Thanks for the offer ModelA

Canuck
12-08-2008, 10:05 PM
Glad it worked out for you.

Easier than it looks, Eh

Glad a flat lander can help you west coast guys out. :D

Canuck

Martin
12-08-2008, 11:23 PM
Hi ModelAbone
I just might have to take you up on that offer, the way Canuck has his looks good to me. Not over the top with the curves, has a nice flow to it and seems well proportioned.
I'm only going to let myself get involved with one item at a time though I guess I could let you have it while I'm doing the front end. But I'll stick with the one at a time thing.
I am going back to sea on January 20th If I were to get it to you around that period would that be OK? I'll gladlly reimburse your material costs etc and what you feel a fair price may be.
Thanks
Regards
Martin