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Wiring a Salt Shaker
(The Bonneville Kind)

For anyone who knows me; you know that I am a “died in the wool” Bonneville Salt Flats racing fan. So much so, that I have a part interest in a Bonneville racecar. This car or truck really, is a ’28 model A Ford Pick-Up Truck.

If you haven’t seen it; it looks like this:

The truck was named, “North of ‘49”, in honor of, north of the 49th parallel naturally! The Canadian / USA border for those who slept through Geography 101!

The two men proudly holding the Canadian flag are Ted Allan (left) and Don Siewert (right). Both got their licenses to drive over 200 MPH. By the end of Speed Week 2002, the truck had run 191.734 MPH! For the benefit of those used to Kilometers / hour, that translates to 308.566 K/M!! Sounds better that way!!

Both Don and Ted had their “B” licenses; AND NOTHING BROKE!!

Not that I had anything to do with the speeds, but I was given the duty of designing a “bullet proof electrical system”, as well as supplying the ignition system.

What follows is a look at the North of ’49 electrical system.

The first step of course is, plan, re-plan, measure, do some more planning, some more measuring, change the plan, re-measure; you get the “picture.”

Here Ted (left) and I (right) discuss some details about how the system will, “come together.” We had to consider location of components, where wires could be run without getting in the way of other components, and finally how the system would be put together. The person in the middle up front is Don Siewert, one of the drivers and chief parts and sponsor “chaser!”

After almost two months of adjusting and moving of parts for the final assembly, I did a lot of the harness work on my workbench back at my shop, finally the moment of truth arrived!

Although I have done a lot of wiring in my day, there is always that little cloud of doubt, until the first “firing!”

The first time everything was finalized and ready to start the engine didn’t happen until about 1:00 AM on the Monday morning of the week Bonneville Speed trials began! Ask any racer, this last minute “thrash” is normal procedure!

This was the day before the truck needed to be loaded into the trailer and on its way.

It had to be in the technical inspection lineup that Friday and there was about two days of towing still to do! Ten minutes after the truck fired, I headed home for the best sleep I’d had in almost a month!

Tech inspection; a piece of cake! With one minor body change, the truck passed with flying colors! Aug 9th, ( Fri.) 2002.

From then, everything worked great; the engine, drive train, drivers and my electrical system. Forgive the puffed out chest!

But enough; let’s get to some pictures.

First a drivers view from the seat.

This is about what the driver sees. Although the driver’s view is far better than what the picture is showing.

The tachometer is hidden behind the right side of the steering wheel, the shift indicator light is just inside the right rim above the spoke; oil pressure gauge is in the center and the temp gauge to the left.

The yellow and black box to the right of the steering is the switch box that controls all electrical functions. Except the master cutoff – safety switch on the back of the tailgate. The master cutoff switch shuts off all electrical power in the event of an accident.

The electrical system of this racer is not all that complicated. However a friend of mine quipped; “A true race car has only ONE wire; that’s the one between the magneto and the “kill” button!” Well Doc this one got a few more wires added.

First; a list of the electrical functions and components that needed to be considered.

  1. Battery located in the pickup box, right side, just above the rear axle.
  2. Master cutoff switch on right side of tailgate. Clearly marked in the event the safety people needed to rescue the driver and shut off the electrical system in case of an emergency.
  3. Electric fuel pump. It is also mounted in the box alongside the fuel tank.
  4. A special little feature that I came up with, a battery boost plug mounted just below the master cutoff switch. More details a little further on.
  5. Electric water pump. It’s actually in the drivers’ compartment but the water tank is in the front of the box. Ted Allan used a rather unique trick of “piping” the water from the engine thru the frame rails to and from the water tank and the pump.
  6. Ignition system. The “heart” of the ignition system is a multiple spark discharge unit. (MSD 6AL) tm A timing computer controls the 6AL. (MSD – Start/ High Speed Retard Computer, tm) the timing computer is “triggered” by an MSD crank trigger, tm.
  7. Circuit breaker and termination box.
  8. Gauges. Tachometer, a shift indicator light, and lights for the oil and temp gauges. The oil and temp gauges are mechanical, but they needed to be illuminated. Even though it’s very bright outside, the cockpit cowl covers the gauges and puts them in the dark.
  9. Tach adaptor. Even though the tach is made by MSD, tm, this model needs the adaptor to work with the 6AL unit.
  10.  Starter. The class that this truck runs in requires a starter. (B/STR) In addition to the rest of the electrical components it has to have; headlights, taillights and a horn; but they did not need to be operational. The starter that is used is a gear reduction type with a built-in solenoid. The solenoid is used both for mechanical engagement and electrical switching. To simplify the electrical switching requirement (less wiring to the engine compartment) I used a remote starter solenoid (relay actually) to power the starter.

To keep all the components (ignition mainly) in an easily accessible location, a panel was fabricated to sit to the right of the driver, the panel is attached to part of the roll bar structure as seen in the next picture.

Starting at the top of the picture. What looks like black tubing are actually 4-conductor cable, (very heavy outer jacket) that connect the various components. The two at the very top, (running from upper right to lower left) run to the fuel pump and the water pump from the switch box.

The other two (upper right corner) are connected to the starter solenoid, mounted on the other side of the panel, and to the circuit breaker box. If you will notice, the wire sticking up just off the right corner of the top box (the one with the diagonal stripes) is the high tension wire off the coil which is also on the other side of the panel.

The high-tension lead runs to a “high voltage pass through” mounted on the firewall and on to the distributor.

One side note; each of the 4-conductor cables has at least one spare conductor in the event of electrical problems.

A view of the switch box taken from the left side of the truck. Each switch controls a separate function. All the switches are a “Bat Handle Extra Long.” Keep in mind the driver is wearing fire resistant gloves.

From left to right, tachometer and switch box. (Above the steering wheel) To the right of the switch box; the breaker and termination box. The top of the box is just below part of the roll bar cage in this view.

The switches from left to right are,

Starter Switch It is a spring loaded (Single Pole Single Throw, return to OFF)

Ignition Switch,  SPST.

Fuel Pump Switch, SPST.

Cooling System Switch.  SPST

Although it is hard to see them, above each switch (except the starter switch) there are very bright LED indicator lamps.

This picture shows the back of the switch box. You’ll note the box is fully enclosed. This box is die cast aluminum and each hole has rubber grommets to prevent any chaffing of the cables. The main reason for using the fully enclosed boxes is to keep SALT OUT!! Salt and electrical components do NOT get along together at all!!

This picture shows an overall view of the cockpit. If your wondering where the steering wheel is; it uses a quick disconnect to let the driver(s) in and out more easily. In this picture the wheel is sitting on the seat. (Lower left corner) The steering shaft is just below the two smaller gauges.

This shot shows the automatic transmission shifter. Yes boys and girls; this machine runs an automatic transmission.  A TH350 with a 1000 RPM stall converter. We had a direct couple piece ready to go, (eliminates the converter) but things ran so well the decision was, “If it “ain’t broke!” DON’T FIX IT!!”

One “trick” that I pulled with “high speed retard” was to move the neutral safety switch (inside the shifter) to a slightly different position. When the driver shifts into high, the switch closes and retards the timing. (Through the timing computer)

Just above the shifter knob and to the left is the coil. Behind the shifter at the base of the panel is the starter solenoid. (Relay)

A close up look at the “panel.” The box with the stripes is the circuit breaker box and termination center. The two white buttons on the top are the circuit breakers; one for the fuel pump and the other for the cooling pump. Almost all interconnections are made inside this box. It has two terminal strips inside, one is “hot” all the time and the other is “ignition”, switched on and off by the ignition switch in the switch box.

A special note about wire “terminations.” I am probably the most paranoid person in the world when it comes to making electrical connections. Especially in a racecar that is shooting for over 200 MPH! A “honkin’” big engine (600 HP PLUS!) attached to a frame without any means of vibration isolation, and the fact that no matter how smooth they scrape the track, there WILL be vibration!

With out starting a “pro”/”con” argument about soldering terminal ends on the end of wires.

I DO!

I also use “star washers” above AND below the terminal ends when attaching them to terminal strips. I hate any other kind of terminal end other than RING ENDS. So every termination (including the switches) has ring end terminals with star washers.

NOTE: a recent technical paper was published that shows that STAR WASHERS ARE DETREMENTAL!  (I confess that I have learned something new!)

I have been soldering wires together and on terminal ends for over 45 years and I have NOT had one fail yet.

I did a little survey in the pits at Bonneville this past summer (2002) and observed a number of entries that used in my mind, some pretty awful wiring techniques. I found a number of crimp on “butt connectors.” That’s where the wires are inserted in each end of a “joint” connection, then, crimped, usually with the wrong crimping tool.

Sadly in one case, I believe it was the cause of some serious ignition problems.

Sorry about that, I’ll get off my soapbox now.

A few unfinished explanations;

  1. The special “boost” plug I mentioned earlier, is normally used with electric powered fork lifts. It took care of a number of situations. The first big reason was this race car does not run an alternator, (or any other type of generating devise) mainly because there is NO room under the hood. I set this plug (a hermaphrodite plug; this means both sides are the same, you can’t mix polarity up, and both sides are protected from possible shorts) in the back of the pick-up box just under the safety shut-off switch. The other end of the plug is attached to a set of battery boost cables. (About 15 feet long)  The opposite end of the boost cables has the normal battery clamp on ends. While the racecar was sitting in line to make a run, the boost plug and cable are attached to the push truck battery. With the engine running in the push truck, this setup keeps the race car battery “topped up.” They would often use this to top the battery in the pits as well.
  2. The switches in the control box operate independent of each other. What this allows for, is you could leave the coolant pump running with nothing else on, (after a run) to keep coolant circulating. You could use the starter switch to roll over the engine with the ignition OFF. (To check timing and set valve lash) And the fuel pump could be turned on or off independently to purge the fuel lines or refill them. Because each switch, other than the starter switch, has it’s own indicator lamp, the driver could be certain all functions were on when ready to race.
  3. All switches are OFF in the down position. This meant the driver could “hit” the switches (remember big driving gloves!) with one downward motion to turn all functions off.

After ten successful runs, the best being over 191 MPH, (I like the 308.566 K/H better!) the race car was still ready to “go some more!” We did not experience ANY mechanical difficulties, and I’m happy to report, not one single electrical problem.

Did having a “bullet proof “ electrical system make the car go fast? No it didn’t. BUT, I slept better knowing it had the very best ignition and electrical system that could be built!

Dave Ness

Photo credits; Pictures one, two and three are by, Mike Siewert.
The rest of the photos are by the author.
© Copyright 2005, by Dave B. Ness. and canadianrodder.com
All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the author.For further information contact Dave Ness at, Nesstronics@telus.net

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