"I can handle a spray bomb, but as soon as you mention a spray gun I'm out of here". If this sounds like you, there is hope for those intimidated by the professional painting procedures. If you want to color match your engine, touch up some rough spots or spray some interior pieces with out using a compressor, then read on.
Most automotive paint supply stores have the capability to custom mix spray bombs to match factory colors. This involves pumping a few ounces of acrylic enamel into a pre-charged aerosol containing some solvent, fast driers and propane as a propellant. The paint is created using an abbreviated formula so the matches are approximate (and not all colors are available in acrylic enamel). There is also the "Preval" brand sprayer where you fill the glass jar with reduced paint (any type) and apply utilizing the small compressed air cartridge it has. Both will color a mishap better than a paint brush, but don't expect an absolute perfect repair and you will still need to follow procedures for a repair - degrease - feather edge - prime and fine sand and blend. The best initial primer in a spray bomb to prevent rust on exposed metal is a zinc chromate primer (sometimes called aluminum primer) that will insure good adhesion and must be used when painting bare aluminum (you can follow with some regular primer as it does not build and should be applied very lightly).
Interior colors can be mixed in small amounts at most auto body supply stores as SEM, PPG and Marhyde all offer comprehensive aftermarket vinyl paint systems that will match original interior colors - follow these manufacturer's procedures. You should be able to apply these products with the Preval as these are lacquer. Most automobiles have areas which we don't want glossy or highlighted such as window trim and areas like undersides of fiberglass parts. A matte or semi-gloss finish is easy to apply with a spray bomb to finish these areas that aren't painted or chromed. My favorite trim paint is Plasticote's "T3 Hot Rod Black" that features a rich factory semi- gloss and is remarkably durable (available at most auto parts stores). Tired black moldings, window trim and rubbers can be easily be renewed with an "aerosol overhaul" using one of the flexible "trim" paint bombs such as Marhyde Bumper Black or Black Satin, that are readily available (from auto body suppliers) just remember to degrease first and scuff lightly with a grey Scotchbrite and tack. There are even 3 stage Kameleon type colors available in spray bomb which can do a small area for very little expense in these exotic colours. Trunk splatter paint in aerosol is available from Sherwin Williams in different factory type patterns. The Eastwood Company offers some great spray bombs for restoring the cast metal look on various engine accessories.
The secret to good results with a spray bomb is good prep and patience - use multiple light coats as opposed to one or two heavy ones. There are trigger handles available that work with most aerosols that give more control and ease of use. Paint is sensitive to temperature, make sure it is above 60°F or you will get paint runs and things won't dry. Lacquers are very susceptible to "blushing" (white haze from trapped moisture) if it is humid out - wait for a dryer day. Mask carefully as lacquer will bite into enamels and conversely enamels will generally wipe off painted surfaces easily while still fresh with some mild mineral spirits. Aerosols run low on pressure quickly and can spit - have several fresh ones when you are trying to apply to larger areas. When finished using or if it's starting to clog - spray upside down for a few seconds to clear the nozzle of paint with straight propellant and if necessary wipe off with a rag and mineral spirits and repeat. An "aerosol overhaul" can really finish off your project at very little cost.
John
